Island Alpaca Company on Martha's Vineyard - Breeding Alpacas for Excellence - Alpacas for Sale
Island Alpaca Company on Martha's Vineyard Island Alpaca Company on Martha's Vineyard

Health Care

Recommended Practices in Caring for Alpacas:

(Sources: Camelid Community Standards of Care Working Group*and general farm experience.) 

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INTRODUCTION
NUTRITION
PHYSICAL ENVIRONMENT
SOCIAL ENVIRONMENT
HUSBANDRY: Parasites- Internal: Whip Worm - Tape Worm - Stomach Worm
                                                       
Nematodes - Coccidia
- Menengeal Worm
                       
Parasites-External
                      
Vaccinations:  CD&T, Clostridium Perfringens, West Nile, Lepto, Rabies
                      
Physical Assessment:Body Scoring, Toenail Trimming, Teeth Trimming
                      
Birthing: Dystocia
                      
Breeding
                      
Shearing
                      
Gelding
                      
Injury/Safekeeping: Hyperthermia - Hypothermia  

Introduction:

      Alpacas are domesticated South American members of the camelid family. These animals differ significantly from other species. Beyond the minimums required to sustain any life, the specifications for their care are unique. Alpacas can thrive in a wide range of environments, from ranches with vast open ranges to small suburban properties, and in almost every type of climate and geography. Some live in dry lot conditions and exist entirely on nutrition provided by their owners, while others live on properties with abundant pasture. These animals thrive in an environment where the relationship with humans and other animals is peaceful, basic
security is provided, and life activities that fit their nature are included. With proper care from responsible stewards, alpacas and llamas typically enjoy good health, with an average lifespan of 15 to 20+ years.
     This information was gathered prepared with addition and assistance of a number of experienced llama and alpaca owners, including practices from our own farm, most of which has been reviewed by veterinarians and representatives of various recognized llama and alpaca organizations. It contains recommended practices based on up-to-date scientific knowledge and community-wide husbandry expertise. It is intended as an educational foundation for recommended camelid care and, as such, to provide the basis for continuity and consistency in that care. In all cases, please consult with your local vetrinarian for your specific need.
      In addition to the general practice recommendations, region-specific conditions may exist, necessitating additional or differing measures in those locales to insure the health and well-being of the animals. Where available, a camelid-experienced veterinarian should be consulted for local or regional needs. Additionally, consider joining one or more llama and/or alpaca organizations for continuing education, networking and local owner support. The references provided at the end of this document give more detailed and extensive coverage for various aspects of camelid care.
     All animals deserve the best possible environment in which to thrive. There are many “right” ways to assure this. The purpose of "Recommended Practices" is to provide basic and important information on providing that environment for llamas and alpacas, beyond minimum requirements. Each camelid caregiver will have his or her practices to assure animal well-being, based on knowledge of the herd individuals, as well as sound husbandry. 


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Nutrition:

Questions we need to ask ourselves:

(1) What do alpacas need for Nutrients?
(2) What are they getting from our pastures or hay?
(3) What do we need to provide in a supplement?
(4) Can we check to see if what we are doing is OK?

1. What do they need? Simply to survive, not very much. On the Altiplano, of Chile, Peru, and Bolivia they subsist on anything from lush grass during the rainy season to very little ground coverage for a good portion of the year. They have to breed for cria births during the rainy season so that the females will have enough milk to keep the cria alive.
Because of the value of these animals in North America, we are not content to have the mortality rates of South America, I learned while visiting Peru with Dr. Purdy, and Dr. Dewitt, that 30% of the cria do not live beyond one month of age. The fertility rates, are also quite high,  reportedly anywhere from 30% to 50%. There are those who believe that, when it comes to alpacas, because they are hardy animals, that less is better.  A well known Veterinarian from Kentucky, completed a study of 22,000 Llamas and 3,000 Alpacas across 27 states. He concluded that 80% of Lama medical problems are nutrition related. He noted, that breeders with 10 to 15 years experience were losing animals due to malnutrition.
We must however not get carried away with the thought of feeding our animals well, to the point of overfeeding. Some alpacas will over eat and become fat if given the opportunity, Overfed alpaca can also   reduce greatly the quality of their fiber.

The best information we have to date, has been published by Dr. LaRue Johnson DVM. of Veterinary Clinics of North America. Added to this information are levels published by Dr. Murray Fowler and Dr. Brian Evans. The levels of key elements in total diet are:


Recommended:  Sample Results



Protein
10% - 16%
10%
Calcium
.6% - .75%
.46%
Phosphorus
.3% - .5%
.35%
Potassium
1% - 1.5% ( Evans )
2%
Magnesium
.34% - .4% ( Evans )
.13%
Fibre
25% +
%
TDN
55% - 65%
57%
Vitamin E
up to 400 iu/day
/day
Selenium
up to 2mg/day
 mg/day
Zinc
60 - 70 ppm
 ppm
Copper
5 - 10 ppm ( Fowler )
 ppm
Vitamin A
15000 iu/day ( Fowler)
 iu/day
Vitamin D
1500 to 3000 iu/day ( Fowler )
 iu/day

An alpaca will eat in the order of 1.5% to 2% of their body weight per day. At 2% a 150 lb. alpaca will eat about 1.4 kg of food per day.


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2. What are they getting from pastures and hay? We need to analyze the grass/pasture and hay to determine the need for and types of supplements that are required for our alpacas. With this information and the above information we can do the calculations necessary. Results from a sample forage analysis coming soon.

3. Supplementation: If you ask people if they feed their alpacas a supplement about 95% will say "yes", and of those about 60% will say "in the winter". If you ask what they supplement you will hear all kinds of answers, but mostly you will hear grain, Alpaca/Llama Pellets, our own grain mixture, Free choice minerals, mineral blocks.
If you want to feed grain, first of all make sure that it is cracked or preferably rolled, Alpacas don't digest whole grain very well, and secondly know why you are feeding it. When feeding grain, you are adding a carbohydrate for extra energy or heat (in winter) and with some grains a small amount of protein. Grains are deficient in Calcium, Phosphorus and trace minerals.
If you wish to use free choice minerals you must understand that you are going to get a very wide range of results in your animals. There are some alpacas that will eat up to 50 grams of a mineral powder or more, per day, and many will eat none at all. If the aim is to supplement say 2 mg of selenium/alpaca/day and your free choice mineral supplement has 125mg/kg you better hope the largest consumer of that product does not eat more than 15 to 20 grams a day, and if the product has a low of 30 mg/kg you have to hope that the one that consumes the least amount of the product eats at least 60 grams/day. In reality it is hard to determine exactly what your animals are getting on an individual basis.
The trick to uniform supplementation is to provide the required elements, in the right concentrations, in a prepared feed, such as pellets, that the alpacas want to eat so that they will get their share.
First it is best to analyze the hay, then after doing some calculations, you can specifications, to bring all the elements in line with requirements, and it is accurately measured and fed in individual portions. A trace mineral salt block is made available but with over 50 alpacas having access to the blocks they consume only about 1/3 of a block in a year, so the trace minerals from the salt block is insignificant and does not enter into our calculations. We make it available for the salt.

4. To determine if what we are doing is OK we do periodic blood sampling. We routinely sample alpacas that are either on the low or high end of the scale, for any particular elements, compared to our other alpacas, along with random samples from other alpacas. We do a mineral panel of seven elements, with occasional add ons such as zinc.
When making a change to the diet with specific results in mind, we give it about 2 or 3 months before doing the next set of blood samples to see if the change has given us the desired result.

Reasons that nutrition is so important:
Viable birth weights
Proper growth rates
Proper development of all body parts, eg. Straight legs etc.
Disease resistance
Eliminates the need for injections re selenium, vitamins E,A,&D
Healthy skin, thus proper follicle and fibre alignment.

Gives the animals genes the ability to live up to their full potential. Geneticists tell us that genes are responsible for about 60% of the animals makeup, the rest is environment.

Other Practices to follow: 
1. Provide continuous access to potable water. The animals should not be required to break through ice or eat snow for their water. In extreme heat, water that is cool to the touch encourages consumption and helps avoid dehydration. In extreme cold, lukewarm water does the same. Consider periodic water-quality testing.
2. Provide daily access to quality, mold-free hay and/or nutritious pasture. In general for adult maintenance, total feed should contain 10-12% crude protein, dry matter basis, offered at the rate of 1.5%-3% of body weight. Growing youngsters and late term pregnant or early lactating females may need 12-16% crude protein, dry matter basis. This may be obtained by using forage with higher protein content and/or a high-protein supplement. Because of subtle differences, llamas require the lower levels of protein while alpacas requirements are higher. However, individual animals can require more or less feed. Use Body Condition Scoring (BCS) (see reference below) and consult with a veterinarian or animal nutritionist to determine
individual needs.

3. If not pre-mixed into a supplemental feed being offered, provide free choice access to minerals appropriate for the species and the region. (A loose form is preferred.) Take any known mineral toxicities into consideration (e.g., copper, selenium).

4. To feed a cria that requires human intervention, by utilizing a feeding tube or bottle regimen that minimizes human bonding. Supplemental feeding by humans should be done only when medically necessary and the cria should continue to reside with its mother and/or the herd to ensure appropriate behavioral development. Inappropriate animal-human bonding may result in severe behavior problems.


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Physical Environment:

1. Provide natural or man-made shelter with sufficient ventilation and space to allow each llama and alpaca to find relief from environmental conditions (e.g., extreme cold, heat, humidity, precipitation, wind chill, waterlogged ground/standing water during periods of wet weather).
2. Provide a heating source or cooling measures when temperatures reach extremes, whether at home or traveling. Heat stress (hyperthermia) and hypothermia are life-threatening conditions. (See "Safekeeping" section for more information.)
3. In enclosed areas, manure should be routinely disposed of, mud prevented, and any urine build-up treated to prevent parasite problems and disease.
4. Provide fencing of sufficient height and strength to safely contain alpacas in designated areas. Fencing design should prevent animals from becoming entangled. Barbed wire is not recommended. 
5. House only the number of animals per enclosure that allows free and independent movement of each animal when not at work with a human, as well as the ability to exercise each day. Physical location and conditions (i.e., terrain, vegetation, availability of pasture, etc.), as well as herd composition (males, weanlings, females, etc.) will dictate the appropriate number of animals that can live within a defined area. As a general rule of thumb, an area of 15 square feet per alpaca would be a minimum.
6. Alpacas are browsing and grazing animals. Where possible, provide them the opportunity to browse and graze daily.
7. In temporary situations such as at shows, or in case of health problems, alpacas may be kept in small spaces for a limited period of time. For longer periods (e.g., animals that are in quarantine), they should be exercised each day.


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Social Environment:

1. Alpacas need to live in association with other herd animals, preferably at least one other alpaca. Without appropriate companionship, most will fail to thrive. Therefore, it is recommended that alpacas never live alone. An alpaca should not be raised as a single baby away from any other camelids.  
2. Alpha or highly territorial males may need to be corralled separately, but should be within sight of other alpacas.
3. Crias should remain with their dams until at least four months of age. (Six months is recommended to promote normal behavior and to assure good nutrition (allow for maturation of the fore-stomach)). When deprived of this herd environment during their growth and development, they can develop severely abnormal ways of relating
to humans at sexual maturity or earlier.
5. Crias should never be sold as pets to be intentionally bottle-fed. Bottle-feeding should take place in a herd environment and only when medically necessary to ensure the health of the dam and/or the cria.


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Routine Husbandry:


What is A Parasite?

A parasite is an organism that grows, feeds, and is sheltered on or in another type of organism while contributing nothing to the survival of its host. In this instance, the host is our alpacas although all other livestock become the hosts for parasites too.  There are two classifications of parasites that affect our alpacas. The first one is Internal parasites – parasites that live and feed inside the alpaca’s body.  These are most often different varieties of worms that live and multiply in the small intestine or the stomach of the alpaca.  The second classification is External parasites – those that live and feed off the outside of the alpaca’s body.  Some examples of external parasites are ticks, flies, mosquitoes, lice, and mites.

Affects of Internal Parasites

There are many types of internal parasites known that infect alpacas and keeping our alpacas safe from these parasites is a year-round job for the alpaca owner.  If parasites are not controlled, the alpaca can become unhealthy and unthrifty.  A heavy load of parasites can cause the alpaca to become sickly and lose weight since the worms living in the alpaca steal a lot of the nutrition that is needed by the alpaca.  Internal parasites can be a severe problem to alpacas sometimes even causing death.

Preventive Measures
    
Herd Management, Pasture Management, Soil Management
Good herd management is the primary prevention of parasite problems. A good nutritional program and awareness of the overall health of your animals is the first basic, but very important, step. Parasites are more likely to seek out and attack weak or failing animals. Good sanitation, pasture rotation, and the weather also play a big part in the control of parasites on your farm.  The weather can make a big difference in parasites on your farm. Many think the winter’s cold temperatures kill the parasites, but in fact the summer heat is more effective in killing parasites.

The Life Cycle Of Parasites

Without proper management, the internal parasites become a constant cycle.  The worms live inside the alpaca getting nutrition from the alpaca’s body.  When the worms are adult, they lay eggs. The eggs get passed out of the alpaca in their feces, or manure, and end up in the pasture. Then the eggs either hatch into larva in the manure or on the ground.  Rain then washes the manure off of the larva and the larva is left to live on the blades of grass.  Then a alpaca may swallow the larva while grazing. Once inside the nice environment of a warm alpaca, the eggs and larva will mature into adults in about three weeks.  These adults now lay more eggs and the cycle starts all over again. So if the alpaca owner does not practice good de-worming herd management, the animals will eventually have a very heavy load of adult parasites. Carrying a heavy load of internal parasites also means a alpaca is getting only partial value from his food.

What about the alpacas that are wild in the mountains of South America and don’t have owners to de-worm them?  Why don’t they get sickly from parasites? alpacas that are out in the wild travel a large area while grazing and browsing.   So, since they are moving from area to area, most of the time they are in new, clean grasses that do not contain eggs and larvae so they are not ingesting eggs.  Our alpaca herds here are often in smaller confined areas and if there are too many alpacas for the area (over crowded pastures), then the chance of having parasites is much greater.


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Common Internal Parasites That Affect Alpacas

The most common signs of internal parasites are generally diarrhea and weight loss.  These are some of the most common internal parasites that we encounter here in the Midwest area.

Trichuris - Commonly known as Whipworms in the Intestine; The eggs of this species may survive for years. This worm lives in the large intestine of the alpaca.  The eggs are passed in the feces and the larva develops inside of the eggs.  When eaten by the alpaca or the host, the eggs hatch in the small intestine and then migrate into the large intestine and develop into adults.  The adults then lay eggs to continue the life cycle.

Moniezia - Commonly known as Tapeworm. A long tapeworm passed in a soft stool. The head of a tapeworm.  The adult is a long, white, flat worm that is in segments. A small single segment of the tapeworm. This is what you will normally see in the alpaca poop that looks like a grain or rice. The flat tapeworm stretched out. This is not the complete worm as some segments have come off. The adult tapeworm is a white flat worm that is in segments. The tapeworm attaches to the wall of the alpaca’s small intestine. Segments, or pieces of the tapeworm, which contain eggs, are passes into the feces and may be seen in the alpaca’s manure. They will look like small grains of rice. The eggs are then eaten by the oribatid mite, an intermediate host.  This mite lives on the grass or on the feces and contains the tapeworm larvae.  Now the mite is eaten by the alpaca while eating pasture grasses.  The larvae attach to the alpaca’s intestinal wall, mature into adults, and continue the life cycle.

Trichostrongylus - Commonly known as stomach worm. Strongyle Egg. These eggs develop rapidly, hatching in less than twenty hours in summer temperatures (70 - 80 degrees F.) If the eggs dry out before they hatch they become dormant and can survive for as long as 15 months. It is not often possible to identify strongyle eggs to genus level as the eggs of most strongylid and trichostrongylid species are similar in appearance and overlapping in size. If identification is necessary the fecal sample must be cultured to provide L3 larvae for further examination. These are very small stomach worms that live in the small intestine of the alpaca. The eggs are passed in the feces. They hatch and develop into larvae in the soil and in the feces.  The alpaca may then eat these larvae from the soil or from their feed or water.  The larvae grow to adulthood in the stomach and small intestine.

Nematodirus - (thread-necked strongyle) These eggs hatch very rapidly in wet weather. Cool, wet weather and lush, moist pastures are ideal conditions for eggs to live. The eggs of this parasite are very large and are distinctive under the microscope. They are very sturdy eggs and may even survive the winter in the feces or the soil. The larvae develop inside of the egg and may survive for several months in the soil or in vegetation. The alpaca then eats the larvae on the pasture grasses which then mature into adults in the alpaca’s small intestine.

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Coccidia -  Summary: Eimeria (Coccidia) - Coccidia are tiny one-celled organisms which multiply in the intestinal tract of many animals. The resulting disease, called coccidiosis, is most common in young animals or animals that are stressed – possibly from moving to a new farm. The disease is more common in the fall and winter months. Coccidia are spread in the feces of an infected animal and most commonly exists when animals are overcrowded into small areas or where unsanitary conditions exist. However an animal must ingest a large number of coccidia organisms in order to get sick.  If an animal ingests only a small amount, he probably will not get sick and it will produce immunity to this disease. The main sign of coccidiosis is diarrhea.  Depending on the level of infection, the diarrhea may become severe and blood may be present. Then the animal becomes depressed, loses weight, becomes dyhydrated, and may become very sick. Death can occur. Corid is the most common treatment for coccidiosis and can be given by mouth or in the drinking water.

Coccidia is very species specific. There are four species known to be found in lamas, eimeria alpacae, lamae, macusanienis, and punoensis.

Identification: It is difficult to distinguish between e. alpacae and e. lamae as they only differ in size by ~ 10 microns and both are treated effectively with Corid. E. macusanienis is easily identified by its avocado shape and is quite large and is best treated with Albon. There have not yet been any e. punensis in an alpaca.

Treatment: The recommended dosage for amprolium (the active ingredient in Corid) is 10mg/# of BW for 5 days. The preventative dose is 2.5mg/# for 21 days. The administration directions on the 9.6% solution is for cattle and is calculated assuming that cattle will drink 1 gallon of water per 100#'s of BW. Alpacas will consume ~ .5 to .75 gallons of water per 100#'s of BW. Consumption can vary depending on the ambient conditions and the available forage. It may be wise to estimate the daily water intake slightly and use the rate of .5 gal per 100# BW.

The 9.6% (.096) solution means that a liter of the solution will contain 96g of Amprolium and 1ml will contain 96mg. A one gallon container of Corid contains 363.36g of Amprolium (96g x 3.785).

First you should know the total weight of the animals that you are treating. You will also need to know the weight to calculate the estimated water consumption.

Example: Total BW = 2,200#
Treatment dosage 10mg/#, 2,200 x 10mg/# = 22,000mg or 2.2g needed to treat the herd
22,000mg divided by 96mg/ml = 229ml needed to treat the herd or 229ml divided by 30ml/fl oz = 7.6fl oz needed to treat the herd for one day.

Make your calculations for every group of animals.

Now you need to get the Amprolium in the alpaca. There have not been many published  numbers on the water consumption of alpacas, but consumption can vary depending on the ambient conditions and the available forage. It may be best to under estimate the daily water intake slightly and use the rate of .5 gal per 100# BW. In this example, the herd is estimated to consume 11 gal per day (2,200/100 x .5). The more buckets of water that are offered; the greater the chance that everyone will get the required dosage.

Amprolium is a thiamine analog and competitively inhibits the active transport of thiamine. The coccidia are 50 times as sensitive to this inhibition as is the host.

Should you choose to supplement B vitamins during treatment it is not recommended to give orally as it will offset the the oral coccidial treatment. Many probiotics contain B vitamins.

Dr. Evans recommends 20-25 mg/lb of body weight of Amprolium for the treatment of coccidia. It is most commonly  dosed at a rate of 10mg/# which has been the recommended dosage. With 96mg/ml, an alpaca weighing 100#'s would require ~10ml of 9.6% Corid solution for a daily dose (100# x 10mg/# divided by 9.6mg/ml).

Vets have also recommended the 5mg/lb, but may not be afraid to go with 10mg/lb for heavy infestation. Alpacas also don't drink as much water as cattle so treating a herd with treated water could lead to under dosing if all the water is not consumed when given at the cattle rate of 1gal/100lbs. My experience is that alpacas drink 1/2 - 3/4 gal/100lbs of BW.

Albon. also used to treat coccidia, is available in a 12.5% solution. Each ml contains 125mg of sulfadimethoxine. I have always used this product at the recommended label dosage of 25mg/# on day 1 and 12.5mg/# for 4 days. An alpaca weighing 75#'s would require 15ml for the first day and half that amount on the next 4 days (75# x 25mg/# divided by 125mg/ml). It has been noted that Albon may be the preffered treatment for cria.


Meningeal Worm in Alpaca
: Parelaphostrongylus 
Meningeal worm is a parasite that affects alpacas. A parasite whose natural host is the white-tailed deer. This is a natural parasite which lives in, but does not affect, white-tailed deer.

Read the questions and answers below to become informed about this parasite.

What is meningeal worm?
Meningeal Worm is a great concern to alpaca owners in areas, particularly in the North Eastern states, where white-tailed deer have a heavy population. Although we have white-tailed deer in Massachusetts, luckily this doesn’t seem to be a very large problem here. There has been no evidence of Meningeal Worm on the island of Martha's Vineyard.

How does my alpaca get m. worm? First, you must reside in an area where white-tailed deer exist. Eggs hatch in a deers lungs. The larvae are coughed up and swallowed by the deer. The larvae are then passed to the feces and excreted onto the ground. The alpaca then may inadvertently ingest the snail when browsing and become infected. The larvae find an intermediate host in snails and slugs. Your alpaca ingests the infected snail or slug. Once the larvae are in the stomach, they penetrate the stomach wall and enter spinal nerves. Then they travel to the spinal cord or brain, migrating into the central nervous system causing neurological abnormalities in the alpaca. The disease CANNOT be passed without the ingestion of an infected snail or slug.

What are the symptoms of meningeal worm infection? Some of the symptoms seen might be: Staggering, rear leg weakness, lameness, uncoordinated gate, stiffness, paraplegia, paralysis, circling, abnormal head tilt, blindness, gradual weight loss, inability to eat.

Can m. worm kill my alpaca? Yes. Damage to the central nervous system can be severe enough to cause death, if aggressive treatment is not begun immediately.

How is the parasite detected? There is no definitive way to detect it in a live animal. Symptoms and lab values are used to diagnose m. worm.

How is m. worm treated once an alpaca is infected? Usually, some type of dewormer is used to kill the parasite. Steroids and anti-inflammatories are used to prevent inflammation and swelling from damaging the spinal cord. Supportive care is, also, used in the form of physical therapy. Keeping blood flow to muscles by massaging helps keep them healthy and allows the animal to recover better.

Will my alpaca recover completely? Depends on how much damage was done. Once the larvae migrate into the nervous tissue, any damage that occurs is usually irreversible.

Can an infected alpaca pass the meningeal worm to other alpacas? Your alpaca must ingest an infected snail or slug to get m. worm. Alpacas are considered a dead-end host. The larvae in alpacas do not mature and produce eggs that mature into larvae that pass out of the animal. They stay in the central nervous system.

How do I prevent meningeal worm in my alpacas? Prevention is the key. The current practice has been to give a dose of Ivermectin every 30 days to alpacas in areas with white-tailed deer. However, overuse of Ivermectin has resulted in increasing drug resistance among parasites in alpacas. Work with your vet. Your worming program should be tailored to your individual farm and geographic area. You can put up a deer-proof fence with a gravel or paved area along the outside of the fence to attempt to keep snails and slugs out of your pastures. This is expensive. You can use a molluscicide, but it might be poisonous to your alpacas, so be careful.

Your vet should have up-to-date information to prevent meningeal worm infections.


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Controlling The Parasite Problem

As part of preventive health maintenance for alpacas, owners de-worm them with various medications on a proper deworming schedule. Controlling the number of eggs and infective larva that a alpaca consumes is the starting point of any effective de-worming program. The de-worming schedule is important as well as the type and dosage of medication administered.

When de-worming, the entire herd should receive the medication – except for those females that are within 60 days of birthing or within 60 days of breeding.  (Females in this stage should not receive any medications whatsoever.) Then after approximately three days the pastures should be cleaned of the manure on the ground to prevent the alpacas from re-infecting themselves with parasite eggs in the pasture. The eggs take 3-4 days to mature so you have that length of time to remove manure from the contaminated pastures. This will greatly decrease the chances of new infections. Or, another good method is pasture rotation: put the animals into a new, clean pasture until the first pasture is cleaned and sun dried.

However de-worming is not the only effective way to help control parasites. Managing your alpaca’s environment is one of the best strategies for parasite control. Since the major objective is preventing pastures from being contaminated with worm eggs, manure removal from their barn areas and pastures will greatly help in breaking up the parasite life cycles. When cleaning pastures, although not all the manure may be able to be removed, the manure is getting raked and broken up, so on hot, dry days, the sun dries out the eggs and larvae and they die. Parasitic larva in manure in the sunlight dries out whereas larva in manure in moist, damp, dark areas survive for months. Cool, wet weather and lush, moist pastures are ideal conditions for eggs to live.

Hay racks, feed dishes, water buckets, and automatic waterers should be regularly cleaned to prevent any possibility of parasites living there. alpacas should not be fed on the ground, as this would increase the likelihood of alpacas infecting themselves with parasites that may be living on ground vegetation. To check how effective your parasite management program is you can have your veterinarian check your alpaca’s feces for parasite eggs.

Some infective larva, such as Nematodirus and Trichurs, can even become dormant over the winter and survive temperatures to 20 below zero. Then they can become infective again about one month after pastures begin new growth in April and May. For this reason, only third generation wormers that are larvacidal are recommended for treatment.  Examples are Ivermectin, Oxbendazole (Synanthic), and Albendazole (Valbazen). A third generation wormer attacks the eggs, the larva, and the adults. Panacur or Safeguard is only effective for adult worms and does not affect the larva. Ivermectin or Dectomax is mainly effective on Brown Stomach Worms and Meningeal Worm. Both Valbazen and Synanthic address Nematodirus and Trichurs.  Strongyles normally will respond to Fenbendalzole (Panacue or Safeguard) or Ivermectin.

General Recommendations*

Every worming program should be tailored specifically to the individual farm: no one policy is going to be appropriate for every situation. These are best worked out in conjunction with your local veterinarian and we would be happy to consult with them should further advice be required. In general though, we need to be concerned about the potential for parasite drug resistance in our animals since indiscriminate use of anthelmintics (these are drugs to treat internal parasites, e.g. Panacur, Safeguard, Ivermectin, etc) can lead to "problem parasites" and we only have a limited number of drugs at our disposal. For this reason, periodic fecal exams and judicious use of anthelmintic drugs is the responsible way to ensure that your farm remains disease-free.

Some farms may only require dosing for gastro-intestinal parasites twice a year and others may need to worm every 2 months. The frequency ofworming depends a lot on your stocking density and management practices. Also, always dose animals individually based on weights: I strongly encourage you to purchase a set of scales for your farm. Under-dosing is another easy way to induce drug resistant parasites. In 2003, we have seen the emergence of "dual-resistance" herds. These herds have intestinal parasites resistant to BOTH ivermectin AND fenbendazole. This is a very grave concern and we have seen many llama and alpaca deaths
from this problem. You need to keep vigilant with herd monitoring.

Fecal Exams

These must be taken from individual animals and not from a communal pooping area. This is important because it allows you to identify particular animals with problems and may show up patterns if you have a herd parasite problem. Take a latex examination glove with a little
lubrication and take the faeces directly from the rectum. Try to collect a good size sample - about half a cup is ideal though labs can work with less. Put it in a clean pot or ziplock bag and clearly label with the animal's identification and the date. Take samples fresh and send away or give to your veterinarian the same day as soon as possible to prevent deterioration of the sample.

How many samples should I collect? We recommend collecting from 10% or 10 animals in your herd, whichever is the greater number. If you have fewer than 10 animals, then test them all.

Which animals? If you need to choose between animals, select those that may be a little on the skinny side and from a variety of ages. [While we're on the subject, routine body condition scoring in these heavily-fleeced animals will help you keep track of how good your
feeding strategy is and also if there may be a parasite problem lurking in your herd.]

It is important that the correct procedure is performed for identifying parasites in camelid faeces. Generally, camelids are a lot more susceptible to parasite problems than other species. Therefore, make sure that whoever is going to be doing your faecals knows the correct method to use. At OSU, we recommend doing a Stoll's test which involves a 1:5 dilution with a sugar solution. This is a lot more sensitive than a McMaster's which uses a 1:100 dilution and is therefore only  able to pick up faecal egg counts down to 100 epg (eggs per gram). If your vet or lab requires further information about these techniques, get them to contact us down here at the University.

Drugs and Doses

Fenbendazole [eg. Panacur, Safeguard]:
Available in paste and liquid formulations generally to serve the equine and food animal markets respectively which is usually reflected in the price. Generally pretty safe, can be used in pregnant dams and crias from a young age if required. Routine dosage: 10 to 20 mg/kg
To figure out how much to give using the paste formulation, the weight scale on the plunger is usually based on a 5 mg/kg dosage. Therefore, multiply the animal's weight by 2 to 4 and use the dosing scale based on this. E.g. a 150 lb alpaca would receive the dose marked for a 300 (at 10 mg/kg) to 600 lb (at 20 mg/kg) horse. For the liquid formulations, this normally comes in a 10% suspension which contains 100mg/ml. Thus for a 20 mg/kg dose, you will need to give 2 ml per 10 kg (or 22 lb) or 10 ml per 50 kg (or 110 lb). You can use an oral dosing syringe for this or a dosing gun which normally comes with the larger packs.
Fenbendazole is available in a medicated feed formulation. This approach
should only be used if you can ensure that all animals receive their prescribed dose: feeding in separate bowls may work but ensure that the animals low in the pecking order also receive theirs. Because of the higher dose recommended in camelids, animals may be required to eat more than they should and there can be the risk of grain overload.

Albendazole [egValbezen]
Similar mode of action to fenbendazole but not quite as safe. Do not use in pregnant animals if possible and use care when giving to young crias. Much better coverage for tapeworms than fenbendazole. Oral suspension.
Dosage: 10 mg/kg

Avermectins [egIvomec, Dectomax]

Widely used for meningeal worm control. Meningeal worm prevention programs usually require ivermectin or doramectin to be given by injection every 30 to 45 days, respectively. Certain types of gastrointestinal parasites, such as nematodirus/whipworms/tapeworms, are
highly resistant to avermectins. There not to be relied upon for controlof gastrointestinal parasites. Avaiable in injectable (1% solution = 10 mg/ml), oral paste, and feed
additive Dose: 300 ug/kg (1 cc of 1% injectable solution per 70 lbs body weight)

Specific Problems

We are increasingly diagnosing resistance among intestinal parasites in llamas and alapacs. We recommend doing a follow-up faecal exam 2 weeks after treatment to confirm that the treatment has worked. A fecal egg count reduction test (checking the parasite egg count before and 14 to 21 days after deworming medication is given) allows evaluation of deworming efficacy. We expect to see >90 % egg reduction if successful. These tests should be done using the Modified Stoll's Fecal Test - this is the only tests available sensitive enough to detect the low egg counts expected after deworming.

Nematodirus or Whipworms (egtrichuris)

These parasites are notoriously variable egg shedders. Even one egg identified on a faecal exam suggests a problem. Aggressive treatment may be required. Dose fenbendazole at 20 mg/kg for 5 consecutive days.

Significant strongyle load
Typically, a single dose of any of the various dewormers discussed is adequate for most strongyles. Occassionally heavy burdens are seen. Treat animals for 3-5 days at 20 mg/kg dose of fenbendazole when burdens are severe or damage from larval migrations is suspected. 

Moderate strongyle load

A single dose of ivermectin, fenbendazole, or albendazole may be sufficient. If the animal is severely thin, then we recommend using a 3-5 day course as discussed.

Tapeworm [egmoniezia]

Albendazole has better efficacy for tapeworm than fenbendazole. Use a 5 day course of fenbendazole at 50 mg/kg given once daily.

Coccidia [egEimeria sp.]
Coccidia are protozoan parasites. Anthelmintic drugs as discussed for intestinal parasite treatment are no effective against protozoa. Coccidia is treated with sulfa drugs (e.g. sulfadimethoxine = albon), but is prevented by using specific drugs such as amprolium (e.g. Corid) or decoquinate (e.g. Decoxx). Label directions should be closely followed because overdosing these drugs can be harmful to the animals.

* Intestinal Parasite Control Program, Camelid Health Program, Veterinary Teaching Hospital, The Ohio State University, Produced by Claire Whitehead BVM&S MRCVS and David E Anderson DVM MS DACVS

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Common External Parasites

The most common aggravation in the barnyard, flies, seem to go hand in hand with raising animals. However there are some effective methods of control. Although primarily an annoyance, flies may cause problems such as eye irritations from feeding on tears, painful bites, and carrying disease from one animal to another. Manure removal is the most effective aspect of fly control since so many flies need manure for their eggs. A fly repellant is most helpful on the legs of the alpaca.  Disposable fly traps, although quite smelly, can be hung around the area and can be quite effective trapping adult flies. Thousands of adult flies can be trapped per trap - and that’s thousands that do not lay eggs and multiply! Natural predators can also be very beneficial in the reduction of flying critters such as flies and mosquitoes. Barn Swallows and Purple Martins both eat flying insects. It is claimed that Purple Martins eat as many as 2,000 mosquitoes a day.  A bat house may also attract bats to your property which are beneficial in reducing flying insects at night.

Other external parasites include mites, ticks, and lice. A mite, whose entire life cycle is spent on the animal, burrows into the outer layer of tender skin areas with thin hair coats such as the face, belly, chest, and legs causing Sarcoptic Mange. The area develops hairless spots, dandruff, scabs, and becomes crusty. It may or may not itch. As it develops, the skin becomes thick, crusty, and leather-like. Ivermectin injections are used as treatment as well as an external dousing of the area with a parasite control.

Two types of lice may infest alpacas - the biting lice and the sucking lice.

The sucking lice feed entirely on blood and can cause anemia and spread disease. They prefer the head, neck and withers area where they actually imbed in the skin. Treatment is Ivomec injected 1cc/110 lbs. Biting lice nibble on hair and debris on the skin surface and can be seen with the naked eye when disrupted. They are found most often by the base of the tail or the side of the neck. Biting lice may be treated with Coral dust (also used to dust rose bushes) by parting the wool down the center of the back and pouring on the dust - about 3 Tbl. per adult alpaca or 1 Tbl./100 lbs. One method of applying the dust is to put the dosage into a mustard bottle and squeeze it out own the spine. Sevin, also a dust, is also used in the treatment of lice. If lice is diagnosed in the herd, it could be treated by putting the Seven in the alpacas dust bowls. The alpacas enjoy rolling in it and dust themselves.

Ticks can also infest alpacas, but the tick type is dependent upon the geographical area. The Rocky Mountain wood tick causing tick paralysis is not found in this Midwest area. Ticks attach to their host and feed on the blood.  Remove a tick carefully and perhaps treat the bite with hydrogen peroxide.  


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Vaccinations:
     General Info:
The following is provided as information only. * Source of info: Washington State University, College of Vet Medicine.
- All vaccinations are off label in alpacas as the population of alpaca in North America is still very small, therefore effectiveness and safety are not guaranteed by the manufacturers. Consult with your veterinarian to determine an appropriate vaccination protocol.
-  Avoid modified-live vaccines in pregnant animals.  
-  Vaccines may not completely prevent infections but often moderate the disease symptoms experienced by the animal.
-  Vaccinations should be used to complement not replace management techniques for disease prevention. 
-  Individual animal response to a vaccine is variable and can be affected by many factors such as stress, immune status at time of vaccination, and proper storage and administration of the vaccine.  A sick animal will not respond as well as a healthy animal.  Vaccinate a week or two prior to a stressful event such as shipping or weaning.
-  Initial vaccinations generally require boosters to generate adequate protection due to the need to prime the immune system and the potential for interference from waning maternal colostral antibodies.
     Commonly Used Vaccinations:
CD&T
-  Clostridium perfringens type C, D, and C. tetani
-  A commonly used vaccine.  C. perfringens has been implicated in diarrhea and sudden deaths in crias and occasionally adults.  All animals are at risk for tetanus following infection primarily through wounds, castrations, etc. 
-  One common vaccination schedule is vaccination of adults yearly; pregnant females 4-6 weeks prior to parturition; crias at 3-4 months old and again 4 weeks later then yearly thereafter.  Other protocols are also used and can be tailored to suit individual farm situations.  
 
Clostridium Perfringens Type A Toxoid
-  Recently developed vaccine for use in cattle.
-  Evaluated at WSU VTH on alpacas
-  No vaccine site reactions were seen.  
-  This product was NOT evaluated on pregnant animals.
-  Titers were measured and results indicated an immune response occurred but the degree of protection provided is unknown at this time. 
 
Other Clostridial Vaccines

-  7-way and 8-way clostridial vaccines available.  The number refers to the number of diseases the vaccine prevents. 
-  Vaccinates against a broad spectrum of clostridial bacteria. 
-  Some contain tetanus.
-  Vaccine site reactions have been reported with some products.


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West Nile Virus

-  Alpacas are considered at low risk of developing clinical signs after infection with this virus.  However the most common signs of infection are neurological usually progressing to death of the animal even with intensive medical treatments.
-  Only consider use in areas with known West Nile virus.
-  Adverse reactions to the vaccine have ranged from mild injection site reactions to anaphylaxis.  Try to avoid vaccinating breeding females within 60 days of breeding or 30 days of parturition.
-  There are two vaccine products that have been used in alpacas: Ft. Dodge West Nile-Innovator® - Research showed 3 doses, 3 weeks apart, generated the highest titer response. Challenge studies evaluating vaccine protection in camelids have not been performed.
- Merial Recombitek Equine WNV vaccine® - No published research but the product has been evaluated on alpacas.   
 
Leptospirosis (Lepto)
-  Consider in areas where the disease is endemic.  May need to re-vaccinate up to 3-4 times a year.
-  Clinical signs vary from fever and anorexia, kidney and liver damage, and abortions.
-  There are many serovars or types of Leptospira.  Vaccines only include the more common serovars found in cattle so protection may be incomplete.  
-  Prevention can be increased by limiting rodent and wildlife contact and vaccinating dogs that may have contact with the herd.
    
Rabies
-  There are currently no licensed vaccines for use in alpacas. Rabies has been reported in camelids. In the state of Massachusetts, the rabies vaccination is not required for alpacas at the time of this posting.
-  Rabies vaccinations can only be performed by veterinarians.  
-  Consider yearly vaccinations in endemic areas which can be given as early as 3-6 months of age.
-  Proof of vaccination may not be sufficient if an animal is exposed leading to quarantine or euthanasia.    

Equine Herpes Virus 1
is disease has been infrequently reported in camelids.  Infected animals exhibit neurological signs needed, use the killed vaccine product and vaccinate every 12 weeks.

3. Physical Assessment
Hands-on physical assessment of each animal should be done regularly, at least twice a year.  This should include weighing and/or body scoring (See Fig. A), mucous membrane color check (inner eyelid or gums), condition of incisors, and fiber coat evaluation. Weight loss, body score changes, pale color, listlessness or clumped stool should be cause for a more detailed health assessment such as fecal analysis, veterinary exam, and blood analysis. Excess weight gain should prompt a review of diet and activity.


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                                                 Body Condition Scoring  (BCS)
For alpacas, BCS should be done by firm palpation of spine and ribs. Fiber can distort body contour and be misleading. Only by hands on BCS can one determine if the animal is fit, fat or thin. Values based on a scale of 1-10, or 1 to 5, palpate backbone in mid-back & ribs behind forearm.

                                                                 Toenail Trimming 
Trim toenails if growth threatens lameness or compromises soundness. For additional info on foot anatomy/leg conformation, and toenail problems, click here.

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                                                                Teeth Trimming:
An alpacas teeth grow continuously for about the first 8 years of the
alpacas life, then the growth will slow down considerably. Ideally the two front bottom teeth should be lined up just under the dental pad. When we see the teeth start to grow towards the end of the pad we will trim them back.  If, the teeth do grow over they will be forced forward and the angle changes. They can be cut back at this point but they will never grow straight under the pad again, because of the angle of the teeth. This is not to say that you should not trim those teeth back, even though they will not be perfect, your alpaca will look better and most importantly, be able to eat and graze normally. Trimming teeth at shearing time (for th

Preparing for your Fiber Harvest!

After a month of straight rain, Spring is finally in the air here in New England and that means it is time to start planning out shearing for this year's alpaca fiber harvest. As Alpaca Fiber becomes a larger part of each farm's business plan, it is important that more thought and attention goes into harvesting each years fiber crop to ensure maximum value and usability throughout the value add chain. In our opinion, Shearing Day is the most important day of the year on an alpaca farm, so let's compare notes to make sure as much usable fiber is harvested this year!

First things first, if you do not do your shearing yourself, it is important to talk with the shearer before hand to make sure they know you process the fiber each year and are looking to maximize the value of the harvested fiber. Second Cuts are the enemy of processors everywhere! You want a uniform staple length throughout the blanket and as consistent as possible throughout the rest of the animal. Have your shearers focus on getting usable fiber off the animal first, and once it is separated have them go back and tidy up the animal.

Vegetable Matter - VM and other foreign objects have a tendency to lock into fiber, especially crias, and it becomes quite a chore for sorters to work through a fleece if it is highly contaminated. Sorting on a commercial scale boils down to efficiency and accuracy and the system breaks down quickly if sorters are tied up working on trouble fleeces. To help prevent this clean paddocks and pastures of loose hay and bedding. Also clean barns of winter bedding and sweep daily. Keeping the barn and paddocks clean 1 month prior to shearing will reduce VM greatly at shearing time. It also helps to feed alpacas close to ground level in the days leading up to shearing day, whether it be in a trough or low hay racks. This will prevent hay catching in the nap of the neck.

Cleanliness - If you are keeping your animals on dry lot while they wait to be sheared, spray the area down to cut down on dust and to prevent them from rolling around on the ground and picking up a ton of extra dirt in their fleeces. Many use a dry vac or blower on their animals to clean as much dirt and debris off them as possible which helps while processing, as well as saving unneeded wear and tear on your combs and cutters. If you are shearing on the ground, put down a tarp large enough to catch all the fiber as it comes off the animal so you are not picking it up off the ground.

Colors - Most farms start off with their lightest animals and shear from light to dark to ensure the fiber collections for each animal do not become color contaminated. Have plastic bags pre-labeled with Animal and Grade ready to catch each grade of fiber as it comes off the animal. You should also be skirting away armpit and chest guard hair before bagging up your fiber as it becomes a chore to go through and do this after the fact. Between colors, thoroughly clean the area of excess fiber to prevent cross contamination.

Dry Fiber - In a perfect world, the Sun will be shining for two full weeks prior to shearing day/weekend but as Alpaca Farmers know all to well, the weather does not like to cooperate. Before bagging up your fiber to store and or ship in to be processed, it is very important the fiber is completely dry to prevent mold damage which will rot the fiber, causing it to become brittle and useless in commercial manufacturing. If your animals are not 100% dry, make sure to let the fiber dry out properly before bagging it up.

By cutting down on 2nd Cuts, Vegetable Matter, Excess Dirt, Color Contamination, Armpit and Chest Guard Hair, and keeping your fiber dry you will be making the very most for this year's upcoming fiber harvest. The next steps are to get that fiber out of your barns, basements, college bound children's old bedrooms, and into the supply chain! NEAFP is more than happy to receive your fiber right after shearing season to get into our manufacturing chain and store in your Fiber Bank Account. This will ensure the fiber gets put to use right away, when it is freshest and least susceptible to contamination or moth damage, returning the most value per pound processed.

Phone: 508-693-5554
Location: 1 Head of the Pond Road, Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard
Mailing address: PO Box 1515, Vineyard Haven, MA 02568

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