HEALTH CARE

Recommended Practices in Caring for Alpaca

Sources: Camelid Community Standards of Care Working Group*, the Merck Vet Manual, and general farm experience

PLEASE NOTE: In all cases, please consult with your local vetrinarian to determine the best care for your alpaca.

Getting
Started

Introduction
Getting Started

Daily Care & Environment

Nutrition
Physical Environment
Social Environment
Husbandry

Health &
Wellness

Physical Assessment
Fiber Management
Vaccinations
Emergency Care
Anesthesia
Parasite Management

Reproduction & Development

Breeding
Disease Resistance
Birthing & Newborn Care

Introduction:

Alpacas are domesticated South American members of the camelid family. These animals differ significantly from other species. Beyond the minimums required to sustain any life, the specifications for their care are unique.

Alpacas can thrive in a wide range of environments, from ranches with vast open ranges to small suburban properties, and in almost every type of climate and geography. Some live in dry lot conditions and exist entirely on nutrition provided by their owners, while others live on properties with abundant pasture.

These animals thrive in an environment where:

The relationship with humans and other animals is peaceful
Basic security is provided
Life activities that fit their nature are included.

With proper care from responsible stewards, alpacas and llamas typically enjoy good health, with an average lifespan of 15 to 20+ years.

Where This Information Comes From

This information was gathered prepared with addition and assistance of a number of experienced llama and alpaca owners, including practices from our own farm, most of which has been reviewed by veterinarians and representatives of various recognized llama and alpaca organizations. It contains recommended practices based on up-to-date scientific knowledge and community-wide husbandry expertise. It is intended as an educational foundation for recommended camelid care and, as such, to provide the basis for continuity and consistency in that care. In all cases, please consult with your local veterinarian for your specific need.

In addition to the general practice recommendations, region-specific conditions may exist, necessitating additional or differing measures in those locales to insure the health and well-being of the animals. Where available, a camelid-experienced veterinarian should be consulted for local or regional needs. Additionally, consider joining one or more llama and/or alpaca organizations for continuing education, networking and local owner support. The references provided at the end of this document give more detailed and extensive coverage for various aspects of camelid care.

All animals deserve the best possible environment in which to thrive. There are many ways to assure this. The purpose of "Recommended Practices" is to provide basic and important information on providing that environment for llamas and alpacas, beyond minimum requirements. Each camelid caregiver will have his or her practices to assure animal well-being, based on knowledge of the herd individuals, as well as sound husbandry.

Getting Started: The Basics

Your Commitment & Planning

A commitment to care for animals 365 days a year in good weather and bad (unless you plan to board them with another breeder).
Create a basic business plan outlining your objectives for conducting and growing your business (unless you’re keeping alpacas as pets)
A budget for expenses of management (and marketing if applicable)
Find a mentor (ideally, the breeder you’re buying from)

Nutrition & Supplements

Orchard grass-based forage/hay mix
- We suggest a mix that has orchard grass as the base
Shredded beet pulp (with or without molasses) for extra nutrition
- We use daily to supplement our additives
Ground whole flax seed (fresh before meals). Ground just seconds before breakfast
Garlic powder (mixed in beet pulp for fly control & digestion)
Mineral/salt. We use Stillwater Minerals
Vitamins (such as B Complex, A&D, Vita-charge paste)
Feed supplements suitable for your type of pasture/hay and area soil
- Healthy Coat Fiber Supplement
- Iron Power (Iron/B Complex)

Health Prep

First-Aid Kit
Dewormers and treatments (consult vet for regional needs)
- Panacur
- Safeguard 10% Suspension paste/liquid drench (We use the liquid)
- Ivermectin (injectable)
- Quest Paste
- Corid for treatment of coccidiosis
Learn injections or get list of supplies from your vet
Find a vet who knows camelids or is open to learning
- If you know how to give injections or are willing to learn, your vet can give you a list of supplies needed: syringes, needles, injectable wormer, vaccines, epinephrine, dyprone for dire emergencies, etc.

NOTE: These lists are a general list of items and is not intended to be all-inclusive. Store all items appropriately and be mindful of expiration dates. For a list of items most appropriate for your area, consult your veterinarian.

General Supplies List

Rake, shovel, and cart/wheelbarrow (for manure removal)
Well-fitted halters and leads for each alpaca
Toenail clippers
Clean Stainless Steel Bucket(s)
Feeders (for grain/mineral salts)
Scoops / measuring cups for grain
Heat Pad for Animals
Oxytocin
Fly Repellent
Electrolyte Replacement (We use Apple-Dex)
Shears
Scale
Flashlight and Batteries
Basic Care Books
Woodchips (for absorption in barn)
Rubber Mats (for barn flooring)
Micro Chips (we use the bio-therm)

Breeder and Cria Care Essentials

Record-Keeping & Monitoring

Notepad for health care records
Blood sample vials and cards (progesterone/DNA testing)
Digital 10-second thermometer
IGg Test Kit
Stethoscope
Emergency phone numbers

Birth Prep & Hygiene

Blanket/pad to keep cria clean
Long disposable gloves & latex gloves
Lubricant (OB lube)
Surgical scrub (e.g., Betadine or disposable surgical pads)
Ziploc baggies
Nolvasan or other naval dip solution
Film/pill canister (to hold dip solution)
Cloth towels
Hair blower/dryer

Feeding & Supplement Support

Feeding tube
Feeding bottle
Pritchard nipple (or equivalent)
Milk replacement formula (Sav-A-Lamb)
Jump-Start Gel (microbial gel)
Probiotic Plus
Light Karo corn syrup
Frozen colostrum
Frozen plasma

Emergency & Physical Support

Enema bottle
Bulb syringe
Dental floss (for tying umbilical if necessary)
Cria coats
Weight scale
Bo-Se Injectable
Charged iPhone or camera

Valuable resources for medical supplies and equipment:

Light Livestock Equipment
Valley Vet
PBS Animal Health
Useful Llama Items
Stillwater Minerals
Kent Labs Triple J Farms (for plasma)

Important Note on Colostrum and Plasma

Colostrum and Plasma must remain frozen and does have a shelf life - typically one year. It's expensive to have shipped over night, but we strongly recommend having on hand if needed.

If you have other farms close to you, you can pool resources and have one farm store these and split the costs. You will know within a few hours of birth if you need to have the colostrum, so make sure if someone else is storing this, then make sure you can get to it within a few hours.

Plasma: You won't know if you need it until the following day. We recommend running an IgG 24 hours after the cria starts to nurse to test cria if it is a poor doer. When you get those results, you'll know if you need a plasma transfer. So, you'll need to have a plan for these BEFORE cria birth.

NOTE: Powdered colostrum does not contain antibodies needed for the new cria. It's a source of nutrition and calories, but it is best for the cria to have actual mom's colostrum or frozen colostrum with antibodies within 12 hours of birth.

NOTE: These lists are a general list of items and is not intended to be all-inclusive. Store all items appropriately and be mindful of expiration dates. For a list of items most appropriate for your area, consult your veterinarian.

Nutrition:

Questions We Need to Ask Ourselves

01
Simply to survive, not very much. On the Altiplano, of Chile, Peru, and Bolivia, they subsist on anything from lush grass during the rainy season to very little ground coverage for a good portion of the year. They have to breed for cria births during the rainy season so that the females will have enough milk to keep the cria alive. Because of the value of these animals in North America, we are not content to have the mortality rates of South America. We learned while visiting Peru with Dr. Purdy, and Dr. Dewitt, that 30% of the cria do not live beyond one month of age. The fertility rates, are also quite high, reportedly anywhere from 30% to 50%. There are those who believe that, when it comes to alpacas, because they are hardy animals, that less is better. A well known Veterinarian from Kentucky, completed a study of 22,000 Llamas and 3,000 Alpacas across 27 states. He concluded that 80% of Lama medical problems are nutrition related. He noted, that breeders with 10 to 15 years experience were losing animals due to malnutrition. We must however not get carried away with the thought of feeding our animals well, to the point of overfeeding. Some alpacas will over eat and become fat if given the opportunity, Overfed alpaca can also reduce greatly the quality of their fiber.

The best information we have to date, has been published by Dr. LaRue Johnson DVM. of Veterinary Clinics of North America. Added to this information are levels published by Dr. Murray Fowler and Dr. Brian Evans.

The levels of key elements in total diet are:

Learn More About Vitamins & Minerals for Alpacas

Information about Fat Soluble Vitamins, Water Soluble Vitamins, and Minerals
02
03
If you ask people if they feed their alpacas a supplement about 95% will say "yes", and of those about 60% will say "in the winter". If you ask what they supplement you will hear all kinds of answers, but mostly you will hear grain, Alpaca/Llama Pellets, our own grain mixture, Free choice minerals, mineral blocks.
If you want to feed grain, first of all make sure that it is cracked or preferably rolled, Alpacas don't digest whole grain very well, and secondly know why you are feeding it. When feeding grain, you are adding a carbohydrate for extra energy or heat (in winter) and with some grains a small amount of protein. Grains are deficient in Calcium, Phosphorus and trace minerals.
If you wish to use free choice minerals you must understand that you are going to get a very wide range of results in your animals. There are some alpacas that will eat up to 50 grams of a mineral powder or more, per day, and many will eat none at all. If the aim is to supplement say 2 mg of selenium/alpaca/day and your free choice mineral supplement has 125mg/kg you better hope the largest consumer of that product does not eat more than 15 to 20 grams a day, and if the product has a low of 30 mg/kg you have to hope that the one that consumes the least amount of the product eats at least 60 grams/day. In reality it is hard to determine exactly what your animals are getting on an individual basis.
The trick to uniform supplementation is to provide the required elements, in the right concentrations, in a prepared feed, such as pellets, that the alpacas want to eat so that they will get their share.
04
To determine if the supplementation is effective, you may do periodic blood sampling.

Routinely sample alpacas that are either on the low or high end of the scale, for any particular elements, compared to other alpacas, along with random samples from other alpacas. We do a mineral panel of seven elements, with occasional add ons such as zinc. When making a change to the diet with specific results in mind, allow about 2 or 3 months before doing the next set of blood samples to see if the change has given us the desired result.

Clinical Pathology: Hematology and clinical chemistries are similar to those in other species with a few significant differences. Camelid RBC are relatively small and may produce anomalous results when evaluated using an automated cell counter. Therefore, instrument adjustment or manual determination is needed for accurate estimations of RBC numbers and the RBC indices.

Normal PCV is 27-45%, and normal RBC numbers are 10.1-17.3 × 106/µL. Normal WBC counts are 8,000-21,400/µL.

Questions we need to ask ourselves:

01
Simply to survive, not very much. On the Altiplano, of Chile, Peru, and Bolivia, they subsist on anything from lush grass during the rainy season to very little ground coverage for a good portion of the year. They have to breed for cria births during the rainy season so that the females will have enough milk to keep the cria alive. Because of the value of these animals in North America, we are not content to have the mortality rates of South America. We learned while visiting Peru with Dr. Purdy, and Dr. Dewitt, that 30% of the cria do not live beyond one month of age. The fertility rates, are also quite high, reportedly anywhere from 30% to 50%. There are those who believe that, when it comes to alpacas, because they are hardy animals, that less is better. A well known Veterinarian from Kentucky, completed a study of 22,000 Llamas and 3,000 Alpacas across 27 states. He concluded that 80% of Lama medical problems are nutrition related. He noted, that breeders with 10 to 15 years experience were losing animals due to malnutrition. We must however not get carried away with the thought of feeding our animals well, to the point of overfeeding. Some alpacas will over eat and become fat if given the opportunity, Overfed alpaca can also reduce greatly the quality of their fiber.

The best information we have to date, has been published by Dr. LaRue Johnson DVM. of Veterinary Clinics of North America. Added to this information are levels published by Dr. Murray Fowler and Dr. Brian Evans.

The levels of key elements in total diet are:

Learn More About Vitamins & Minerals for Alpacas

Information about Fat Soluble Vitamins, Water Soluble Vitamins, and Minerals
02
03
If you ask people if they feed their alpacas a supplement about 95% will say "yes", and of those about 60% will say "in the winter". If you ask what they supplement you will hear all kinds of answers, but mostly you will hear grain, Alpaca/Llama Pellets, our own grain mixture, Free choice minerals, mineral blocks.
If you want to feed grain, first of all make sure that it is cracked or preferably rolled, Alpacas don't digest whole grain very well, and secondly know why you are feeding it. When feeding grain, you are adding a carbohydrate for extra energy or heat (in winter) and with some grains a small amount of protein. Grains are deficient in Calcium, Phosphorus and trace minerals.
If you wish to use free choice minerals you must understand that you are going to get a very wide range of results in your animals. There are some alpacas that will eat up to 50 grams of a mineral powder or more, per day, and many will eat none at all. If the aim is to supplement say 2 mg of selenium/alpaca/day and your free choice mineral supplement has 125mg/kg you better hope the largest consumer of that product does not eat more than 15 to 20 grams a day, and if the product has a low of 30 mg/kg you have to hope that the one that consumes the least amount of the product eats at least 60 grams/day. In reality it is hard to determine exactly what your animals are getting on an individual basis.
The trick to uniform supplementation is to provide the required elements, in the right concentrations, in a prepared feed, such as pellets, that the alpacas want to eat so that they will get their share.
04
To determine if the supplementation is effective, you may do periodic blood sampling.

Routinely sample alpacas that are either on the low or high end of the scale, for any particular elements, compared to other alpacas, along with random samples from other alpacas. We do a mineral panel of seven elements, with occasional add ons such as zinc. When making a change to the diet with specific results in mind, allow about 2 or 3 months before doing the next set of blood samples to see if the change has given us the desired result.

Clinical Pathology: Hematology and clinical chemistries are similar to those in other species with a few significant differences. Camelid RBC are relatively small and may produce anomalous results when evaluated using an automated cell counter. Therefore, instrument adjustment or manual determination is needed for accurate estimations of RBC numbers and the RBC indices.

Normal PCV is 27-45%, and normal RBC numbers are 10.1-17.3 × 106/µL. Normal WBC counts are 8,000-21,400/µL.

Reasons that nutrition is so important:

Viable birth weights - Proper growth rates - Proper development of all body parts, eg. Straight legs etc. - Disease resistance - May eliminate the need for injections re: selenium, vitamins E, A,& D - Healthy skin, thus proper follicle and fibre alignment. Gives the animals genes the ability to live up to their full potential. Geneticists tell us that genes are responsible for about 60% of the animals makeup, the remainder is environmental.

Seasonal Hypovitaminosis D:

Characterized by diminished growth, angular limb deformities, kyphosis, and a reluctance to move, can be a problem in heavily fibered animals raised in regions with poor sun exposure during winter months. The problem is most severe in rapidly growing, fall-born crias. Serum phosphorus of <3.0 mg/dL, a calcium:phosphorus ratio of >3:1, and vitamin D concentrations of <15 nmol/L in crias <6 mo old are diagnostic. Normal phosphorus and vitamin D concentrations in this age group are 6.5-9.0 mg/dL and >50 nMol/L, respectively.

Other Practices to Follow:

Provide continuous access to potable water The animals should not be required to break through ice or eat snow for their water. In extreme heat, water that is cool to the touch encourages consumption and helps avoid dehydration. In extreme cold, lukewarm water does the same. Consider periodic water quality testing.

If not pre-mixed into a supplemental feed being offered, provide free choice access to minerals appropriate for the species and the region. (A loose form is preferred.) Take any known mineral toxicities into consideration (e.g., copper, selenium).

Provide daily access to quality, mold-free hay and/or nutritious pasture. In general for adult maintenance, total feed should contain 10-12% crude protein, dry matter basis, offered at the rate of 1.5%-3% of body weight. Growing youngsters and late term pregnant or early lactating females may need 12-16% crude protein, dry matter basis. This may be obtained by using forage with higher protein content and/or a high-protein supplement. Because of subtle differences, llamas require the lower levels of protein while alpacas requirements are higher. However, individual animals can require more or less feed. Use Body Condition Scoring (BCS) (see reference below) and consult with a veterinarian or animal nutritionist to determine individual needs.

To feed a cria that requires human intervention, by utilizing a feeding tube or bottle regimen that minimizes human bonding. Supplemental feeding by humans should be done only when medically necessary and the cria should continue to reside with its mother and/or the herd to ensure appropriate behavioral development. Inappropriate animal-human bonding may result in severe behavior problems.

Physical Environment

Provide natural or man-made shelter with sufficient ventilation and space to allow each llama and alpaca to find relief from environmental conditions (e.g., extreme cold, heat, humidity, precipitation, wind chill, waterlogged ground/standing water during periods of wet weather).

Provide a heating source or cooling measures when temperatures reach extremes, whether at home or traveling. Heat stress (hyperthermia) and hypothermia are life-threatening conditions. (See "Safe-keeping" section for more information.)

In enclosed areas, manure should be routinely disposed of, mud prevented, and any urine build-up treated to prevent parasite problems and disease.

Provide fencing of sufficient height and strength to safely contain alpacas in designated areas. Fencing design should prevent animals from becoming entangled. Barbed wire is not recommended.

House only the number of animals per enclosure that allows free and independent movement of each animal when not at work with a human, as well as the ability to exercise each day. Physical location and conditions (i.e., terrain, vegetation, availability of pasture, etc.), as well as herd composition (males, weanlings, females, etc.) will dictate the appropriate number of animals that can live within a defined area. As a general rule of thumb, an area of 15 square feet per alpaca would be a minimum.

Alpacas are browsing and grazing animals. Where possible, provide them the opportunity to browse and graze daily.

In temporary situations such as at shows, or in case of health problems, alpacas may be kept in small spaces for a limited period of time. For longer periods (e.g., animals that are in quarantine), they should be exercised each day.

Two alpacas looking at the barn at Island Alpaca farm

Social Environment

Alpacas need to live in association with other herd animals, preferably at least one other alpaca. Without appropriate companionship, most will fail to thrive. Therefore, it is recommended that alpacas never live alone. An alpaca should not be raised as a single baby away from any other camelids.

Alpha or highly territorial males may need to be corralled separately, but should be within sight of other alpacas.

Crias should remain with their dams until at least four months of age. (Six months or seventy pounds is recommended to promote normal behavior and to assure good nutrition (allow for maturation of the fore-stomach)). When deprived of this herd environment during their growth and development, they can develop severely abnormal ways of relating to humans at sexual maturity or earlier.

Crias should never be sold as pets to be intentionally bottle-fed. Bottle-feeding should take place in a herd environment and only when medically necessary to ensure the health of the dam and/or the cria.

Routine Husbandry

Toenail Trimming

Trim toenails if growth threatens lameness or compromises soundness. Alpaca's toenails grow continuously throughout their lives. Alpacas that reside in hard rocky ground in the mountains of Peru, Chili and Bolivia will naturally wear their toenails short. Alpacas in North America generally are more sedentary and have less area to exercise, or live on soft ground. As a result their toenails tend to grow longer. Long toenails may curve causing the toe to twist. This will pinch the pad and eventually it will break off painfully. This will cause lameness, and in order to avoid such problems, toenail trimming should be a part of routine care. Start at the back edges of each nail and work forward towards the point. Be careful not to cut in the edge of the pad since cuts will bleed and expose the Alpaca to the risk of infection. If you are a beginner, be conservative and leave more toenail as a margin for error. As you become more experienced you will find it very easy to trim your Alpaca's nails short without hurting them. When trimming the inside of the toenail, it helps to spread the toes apart with you fingers to allow more space for your nail clippers. Once you have trimmed both sides of the nail, remove the point with one final cut perpendicular to the line of the nail. Long curved nails may cause the Alpaca's entire toe to twist uncomfortably. One trimming may not be enough to allow the toe and nail to grow straight. It will be important to trim this animal's nails regularly, at least once a month until the toes and the nails remain straight. When the edge of a toenail has folded under to press on the pad, do not try to simply unfold it and cut it off. Trim the surrounding nail; gently unfold the folded part of the nail as far as possible without causing the nail to break off. Trim the nail back with several cuts in order to avoid cutting into the quick. Trim this toenail every 2 to 3 weeks until it returns to normal. If you accidentally cut into the quick and cause some bleeding, finish trimming the nail, then if it has not stopped bleeding, apply direct pressure to the area until it does. Pouring some 7% Iodine over the area will also help to stop the bleeding and will act as a disinfectant. Watch the Alpaca over the next few days in case an infection or lameness develops.

Feet

Alpacas seldom have problems associated with their feet. Alpacas normally walk on their middle and distal (furthest out) bones in their feet, called phalanges. These are anatomically equivalent to the bones of the middle part and tip of our fingers. The toenail surrounds and protrudes from the tip of each distal phalanx. The pad on the bottom of the foot resembles a dog's footpad, but is much tougher. Lameness or limping is an indication of pain or mechanical problems in an Alpaca's legs. Among the most common causes of lameness are foot problems. Either the nails are too long or damaged, or bruises, cracks, cuts, or infection of footpad. Other causes may be ankle sprain or an injury higher up the leg.

Teeth Trimming

An alpacas teeth grow continuously for about the first eight years of the alpacas life, then the growth does slow down considerably. Ideally the two front bottom teeth should be lined up just under the dental pad. Not a frequent occurance, but when we see the teeth start to grow towards the end of the pad we will trim them back. If the teeth happen to grow over they could be forced forward and the angle could change. They could be cut back at this point but they may never grow straight again due to the angle of the teeth. This is not to say that you should not trim those teeth back, even though they will not be perfect, your alpaca will look better and most importantly have the ability to eat and graze normally.

Novice Handler Syndrome

This syndrome is a long recognized condition where an over-handled or bottle-fed cria accepts people as its herd and then fulfills his natural desire to dominate the herd and become physically intimidating. It particularly applies to males but female alpacas can become disrespectful and difficult too. Clucking and spitting are the more likely outcome but occasionally females also are physically menacing. Extreme behavior is often caused by the way the alpaca is handled as a cria, and for this reason can be referred to as “Novice Handler Syndrome”. Prevention is easier than cure! One very important facet of the “Novice Handler Syndrome” previously known as “Bazerk Alpaca Syndrome” is the tendency of people to misinterpret the beginnings of aggressive behavior for friendliness. Young alpaca babies that rub, lean, stand closely, or walk right up and put their nose in your face or crotch and fail to yield space when you move toward them are not being friendly. These behaviors are the beginnings of aggression – the alpaca is checking out the boundaries of behavior to see what is allowed. If you do nothing to discourage this seemingly “friendly” behaviour it usually escalates and the alpaca can become completely unmanageable While there is nothing wrong with a young alpaca soliciting a greeting with neck and nose extended and then waiting politely for you to lean forward to participate in the greeting, sticking his nose in your face any time he feels like it is crossing the line of allowable behavior. Be clear about the fact that you have a personal space and he is not allowed in it. A human need only stop an animal from entering this space; we do not need to chase him away. Tell the alpaca what you want him to do: “STAY BACK”. However, remember to be a teacher rather than a boss and don’t participate in dominance contests with your alpacas (“I will show this animal who is the boss” attitude). Treat males and female babies the same – insist on respectful behavior from both sexes but avoid confrontation. If you are bottle feeding you need to ensure the cria remains in the herd even if he is motherless, and that he is handled to an absolute minimum – feed him and walk away! Cria (alpaca babies) do best if they have other babies to play with. With other babies around in many cases, the whole problem becomes a non-issue. The best alpacas are those raised by older alpacas who are well treated and correctly handled.

Physical Assessment

Hands-on physical assessment of each animal should be done regularly, at least twice a year. This should include weighing and/or body scoring (See Fig. A), mucous membrane color check (inner eyelid or gums), condition of incisors, and fiber coat evaluation. Weight loss, body score changes, pale color, listlessness or clumped stool should be cause for a more detailed health assessment such as fecal analysis, veterinary exam, and blood analysis. Excess weight gain should prompt a review of diet and activity.

Body Condition Scoring (BCS):

For alpacas, BCS should be done by firm palpation of spine and ribs. Fiber can distort body contour and be misleading. Only by hands on BCS can one determine if the animal is fit, fat or thin. Values based on a scale of 1-10, or 1 to 5, palpate backbone in mid-back & ribs behind forearm.

Fiber: Preparing for Fiber Harvest

As Alpaca Fiber becomes a larger part of each farm's business plan, it is important that more thought and attention goes into harvesting each years fiber crop to ensure maximum value and usability throughout the value-add chain. Shearing Day can be the most important day of the year on an alpaca farm.

If you do not do your shearing yourself, it is important to talk with the shearer before hand to make sure they know you process the fiber each year and are looking to maximize the value of the harvested fiber. Second Cuts are the enemy of processors everywhere. You want a uniform staple length throughout the blanket and as consistent as possible throughout the rest of the animal. Have your shearers focus on getting usable fiber off the animal first, and once it is separated have them go back and tidy up the animal.

Vegetable Matter

Vegetable matter and other foreign objects have a tendency to lock into fiber, especially crias, and it becomes quite a chore for sorters to work through a fleece if it is highly contaminated. Sorting on a commercial scale boils down to efficiency and accuracy and the system breaks down quickly if sorters are tied up working on trouble fleeces. To help prevent this clean paddocks and pastures of loose hay and bedding. Also clean barns of winter bedding and sweep daily. Keeping the barn and paddocks clean one month prior to shearing will reduce the vegetable matter greatly at shearing time. It also helps to feed alpacas close to ground level in the days leading up to shearing day, whether it be in a trough or low hay racks. This will prevent hay catching in the nap of the neck.

Colors

Most farms start off with their lightest animals and shear from light to dark to ensure the fiber collections for each animal do not become color contaminated. Have plastic bags pre-labeled with specific animal and grade ready to catch each grade of fiber as it comes off the animal. It is also helpful at this time to be skirting away armpit and chest guard hair before bagging up your fiber as it becomes a chore to go through and do this after the fact. Between colors, thoroughly clean the area of excess fiber to prevent cross contamination.

Cleanliness

If you are keeping your animals on dry lot while they wait to be sheared, spray the area down to cut down on dust and to prevent them from rolling around on the ground and picking up a ton of extra dirt in their fleeces. Many use a dry vac or blower on their animals to clean as much dirt and debris off them as possible which helps while processing, as well as saving unneeded wear and tear on your combs and cutters. If you are shearing on the ground, put down a tarp large enough to catch all the fiber as it comes off the animal so you are not picking it up off the ground.

Dry Fiber

In a perfect world, the sun will be shining for two full weeks prior to shearing day/weekend but as alpaca farmers know all to well, the weather does not always cooperate. Before bagging up your fiber to store and or ship in to be processed, it is very important the fiber is completely dry to prevent mold damage which will rot the fiber, causing it to become brittle and useless in commercial manufacturing. If your animals are not 100% dry, make sure to let the fiber dry out properly before bagging it up.

By cutting down on second cuts, vegetable matter, excess dirt, color contamination, armpit and chest guard hair, and keeping your fiber dry you will be making the very most for this year's upcoming fiber harvest. The next steps are to get that fiber out of your barns, basements, college bound children's old bedrooms, and into the supply chain. Check your local fiber cooperatives - they are more than happy to receive your fiber right after shearing season to get it into the manufacturing chain. This will ensure the fiber gets put to use right away, when it is freshest and least susceptible to contamination or moth damage, returning the most value per pound processed.

Vaccinations

The following is provided as information only. *

Source of info: Washington State University, College of Vet Medicine

General Information

All vaccinations are off label in alpacas as the population of alpaca in North America is still very small, therefore effectiveness and safety are not guaranteed by the manufacturers. Consult with your veterinarian to determine an appropriate vaccination protocol.

Avoid modified-live vaccines in pregnant animals.

Vaccines may not completely prevent infections but often moderate the disease symptoms experienced by the animal.

Vaccinations should be used to complement not replace management techniques for disease prevention.

Individual animal response to a vaccine is variable and can be affected by many factors such as stress, immune status at time of vaccination, and proper storage and administration of the vaccine. A sick animal will not respond as well as a healthy animal. Vaccinate a week or two prior to a stressful event such as shipping or weaning.

Initial vaccinations generally require boosters to generate adequate protection due to the need to prime the immune system and the potential for interference from waning maternal colostral antibodies.

Commonly Used Vaccinations

CD&T

Clostridium perfringens type C, D, and C. tetani A commonly used vaccine. C. perfringens has been implicated in diarrhea and sudden deaths in crias and occasionally adults. All animals are at risk for tetanus following infection primarily through wounds, castrations, etc. Schedule: One common vaccination schedule is vaccination of adults yearly; pregnant females 4-6 weeks prior to parturition; crias at 3-4 months old and again 4 weeks later then yearly thereafter. Other protocols are also used and can be tailored to suit individual farm situations.

Clostridium Perfringens Type A Toxoid

A recently developed vaccine for use in cattle - Evaluated at WSU VTH on alpacas - No vaccine site reactions were seen. - This product was NOT evaluated on pregnant animals. - Titers were measured and results indicated an immune response occurred but the degree of protection provided is unknown at this time.

Other Clostridial Vaccines

Vaccinates against a broad spectrum of clostridial bacteria. - Some contain tetanus. - Vaccine site reactions have been reported with some products. - 7-way and 8-way clostridial vaccines available. The number refers to the number of diseases the vaccine prevents.

Commonly Used Antibiotic

Naxcel

Naxcel Sterile Powder (ceftiofur sodium) is use for treatment of respiratory disease or pneumonia associated with Mannheimia spp. (Pasteurella haemolytica), Pasteurella multocida and Haemophilus somnus. Naxcel is also indicated for treatment of foot rot, pododermatitis associated with Fusobacterium necrophorum and Bacteroides melaninogenicus. Spectrum - Naxcel is a broad spectrum cephalosporin antibiotic active against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, including beta-lactamase-producing strains. It has also been demonstrated against E. coli, Salmonella spp., Streptococcus spp., Moraxella bovis and Actinomyces pyogen. Absorbtion - It is absorbed within 1-4 hours after injection. Dosage - The recommended dosage is 0.1 to 1.0 mg/lb of body weight (1 to 2 mL reconstituted sterile solution per 100 lb body weight) - or .35 cc per 20 lbs. Treatment should be repeated at 24-hour intervals for a total of 3 consecutive days. Additional treatments may be administered on days 4 and 5 for animals that do not show a satisfactory response (not recovered) after the initial three treatments. Selection of treatment duration should be based on the practitioner's judgment of severity of disease (i.e., for respiratory disease, extent of elevated body temperature, depressed physical appearance, increased respiratory rate, coughing and/or loss of appetite; and for foot rot, extent of swelling, lesion and severity of lameness). Storage - The unreconstituted powder requires no refrigeration; after reconstitution, the product must be refrigerated. Potency - Reconstituted Naxcel solution can be stored for up to 7 days in a refrigerator or 12 hours at room temperature. Reconstituted Naxel can be frozen for future use for up to 8 weeks. Avoid usage in young cria up to 4 months.

Regional or Situational Vaccines:

West Nile Virus

Alpacas are considered at low risk of developing clinical signs after infection with this virus. However the most common signs of infection are neurological usually progressing to death of the animal even with intensive medical treatments. Only consider use in areas with known West Nile virus. Adverse reactions to the vaccine have ranged from mild injection site reactions to anaphylaxis. Try to avoid vaccinating breeding females within 60 days of breeding or 30 days of parturition. There are two vaccine products that have been used in alpacas: Ft. Dodge West Nile-Innovator - Research showed 3 doses, 3 weeks apart, generated the highest titer response. Challenge studies evaluating vaccine protection in camelids have not been performed. Merial Recombitek Equine WNV vaccine - No published research but the product has been evaluated on alpacas.

Rabies

There are currently no licensed vaccines for use in alpacas. Rabies has been reported in camelids. In the state of Massachusetts, the rabies vaccination is not required for alpacas at the time of this posting. Rabies vaccinations can only be performed by veterinarians. Consider yearly vaccinations in endemic areas which can be given as early as 3-6 months of age. Proof of vaccination may not be sufficient if an animal is exposed leading to quarantine or euthanasia.

Leptospirosis (Lepto):

Consider in areas where the disease is endemic. May need to re-vaccinate up to 3-4 times a year. Clinical signs vary from fever and anorexia, kidney and liver damage, and abortions. There are many serovars or types of Leptospira. Vaccines only include the more common serovars found in cattle so protection may be incomplete. Prevention can be increased by limiting rodent and wildlife contact and vaccinating dogs that may have contact with the herd.

Equine Herpes Virus 1:

A disease has been infrequently reported in camelids. Infected animals exhibit neurological signs needed, use the killed vaccine product and vaccinate every 12 weeks.

Emergency Care

Alpaca Stomach Ulcers

Alpaca stomach ulcers are not uncommon. Ulcers can very easily lead to an alpaca death, so it is important to prevent this alpaca disease. Unfortunately, alpacas are stoic and it is hard to know that your alpaca is developing an ulcer until they are well advanced.

Death occurs because the ulcer has penetrated the stomach wall and stomach contents spill into the abdominal cavity causing peritonitis (infection). The alpaca’s condition rapidly deteriorates when this happens and the alpaca dies. Since we do not want to lose an alpaca, preventing ulcers is important. How do we do that? Let's begin with what causes alpaca stomach ulcers

01
An overproduction of gastric acid upsets the delicate PH balance in the third compartment of an alpaca’s digestive system. The terminal end of the third compartment is where acid is produced. Just like humans, excess acid is produced when an alpaca is stressed. Stress appears to be the greatest cause of ulcers in alpacas.

Inappropriate diet can, also, cause alpaca stomach ulcers. A diet high in grains is hard for alpacas to digest. Corn and wheat are the hardest and oats are the easiest to digest. So think a lot about what you are giving your alpacas for treats.
02
Well, ulcers are mostly diagnosed by the process of eliminating everything else. Think possible ulcer if you see these symptoms:

- Cushing a lot
- Cushing in an abnormal position
- Grinding teeth (indication of pain)
- Not eating
- Excess salivation
- Lack of stools
- Black stools (bleeding)
- Restless - laying down and getting up frequently

In young alpacas you may observe these symptoms:

- Kicking at abdomen
- Rolling
- Thrashing

When calling your vet about a sick alpaca, don't forget to include recent activities. It is important for the vet to know if your alpaca was stressed. Have they been transported recently, gone to a show, weaned, or hospitalized?
03
Once your alpaca develops an ulcer, it is important to treat it quickly to prevent perforation of the stomach wall. Doctor Geoffrey Smith, Professor of Ruminant Medicine at North Carolina State University, did a study on Llamas and concluded that Omeprazole given intravenously works very well on camelids. Oral omeprazole was not very effective. It appears that bacteria in the first compartment degrade the oral medicine making it less effective by the time it reaches the third compartment where the ulcer probably exists. IV fluids and a prophylactic antibiotic are needed, too.
04
Ideally, you want to keep your alpaca from developing ulcers in the first place. Start by reducing stress. Always use the buddy system. Animals and will be less stressed when kept with herd mates. A lot of ulcers are formed when animals are hospitalized by themselves.

-Avoid overcrowding your herd
-Delay weaning a cria if it has any health problems

Other things to avoid to prevent formation of ulcers:

-Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS) such as bute or banamine and gluccocorticoids - cortisone can cause ulcers so use with caution.

-Give very little grains. Alpacas should be eating mostly high quality hay.

Alpaca stomach ulcers have a high mortality. Prevent ulcer development by reducing stress and feeding an appropriate diet. A happy alpaca is a healthy alpaca.

“Bloat” is defined as tympany of the first stomach compartment. Bloat occurs when rumen gas production exceeds the rate of gas elimination. Gas then accumulates causing distention of the rumen. The skin on the left side of the animal behind the last rib may appear distended. Bloat can be a medical emergency, and timely intervention may be necessary to prevent death. Bloat is a common cause of sudden death in livestock. It usually results from nutritional causes.

Bloat in other ruminant species is usually classified as primary (frothy) or secondary (free-gas). Alpacas or llamas, grazing in the natural pastures of the Andean region never showed frothy bloat. Also, these animals have been observed to graze on alfalfa or clover pastures without bloating, and this would normally produce bloat in conventional ruminants. Cases of free-gas bloat do occur, albeit infrequently, probably due to toxic plants.

1. Frothy Bloat (pasture bloat)

Frothy bloat is usually associated with the consumption of legumous forages, but may also occur in sheep grazing lush cereal grain pastures or wet grass pastures or consuming grain that is too finely ground. Animals with frothy bloat can be treated with anti-foaming agents such as cooking oil or mineral oil or a commercial product such as Poloxalene.

2. Free Gas Bloat (feed lot bloat)

Free grass bloat is associated with grain feeding and occurs when animals were not given enough of an adjustment period. Many of the same factors causing acidosis are associated with free-gas bloat. Simple passage of a stomach tube may be effective at relieving free gas bloat. Inserting a trochar or needle into the abdomen is a life-saving procedure that should only be attempted as a last resort.

Anesthesia

Xylazine (0.1-0.2 mg/kg, IV) can be used for sedation without recumbency; higher dosages (0.3-0.4 mg/kg, IV) will result in recumbency and provide a light plane of anesthesia for 20-30 min. Xylazine (0.25 mg/kg, IV, or 0.35 mg/kg, IM) followed by ketamine (3-5 mg/kg, IV, or 5-8 mg/kg, IM) 15 min later will provide 30-60 min of restraint. Simultaneous administration of xylazine (0.4 mg/kg, IM) and ketamine (4.0 mg/kg, IM) will usually provide 15-20 min of restraint. Butorphanol (0.1-0.2 mg/kg, IM) can provide sedation of short duration.

Alpacas tolerate general anesthesia well and usually do not require tranquilization before induction. Premedication with atropine (0.02 mg/kg, IV, or 0.04 mg/kg, IM) will prevent bradyarrhythmias and decrease salivary secretions. Induction and maintenance of anesthesia are similar to that in other domestic species.

Parasite Management

What is a Parasite?

A parasite is an organism that grows, feeds, and is sheltered on or in another type of organism while contributing nothing to the survival of its host. In this instance, the host is our alpacas although all other livestock become the hosts for parasites too. There are two classifications of parasites that affect our alpacas. The first one is Internal parasites, parasites that live and feed inside the alpacas body. These are most often different varieties of worms that live and multiply in the small intestine or the stomach of the alpaca. The second classification is External parasites, those that live and feed off the outside of the alpacas body. Some examples of external parasites are ticks, flies, mosquitoes, lice, and mites.

The Life Cycle of Parasites:

Without proper management, the internal parasites become a constant cycle. The worms live inside the alpaca getting nutrition from the alpaca's body. When the worms are adult, they lay eggs. The eggs get passed out of the alpaca in their feces, or manure, and end up in the pasture. Then the eggs either hatch into larva in the manure or on the ground. Rain then washes the manure off of the larva and the larva is left to live on the blades of grass. Then alpaca may swallow the larva while grazing. Once inside the nice environment of a warm alpaca, the eggs and larva will mature into adults in about three weeks. These adults now lay more eggs and the cycle starts all over again. So if the alpaca owner does not practice good de-worming herd management, the animals will eventually have a very heavy load of adult parasites. Carrying a heavy load of internal parasites also means a alpaca is getting only partial value from his food.

What about the alpacas that are wild in the mountains of South America and don't have owners to de-worm them? Why don't they get sickly from parasites? Alpacas that are out in the wild travel a large area while grazing and browsing. So, since they are moving from area to area, most of the time they are in new, clean grasses that do not contain eggs and larvae so they are not ingesting eggs. Our alpaca herds here are often in smaller confined areas and if there are too many alpacas for the area (over crowded pastures), then the chance of having parasites is much greater.

External Parasites

Flies:

The most common aggravation in the barnyard, flies, seem to go hand in hand with raising animals. However there are some effective methods of control. Although primarily an annoyance, flies may cause problems such as eye irritations from feeding on tears, painful bites, and carrying disease from one animal to another. Manure removal is the most effective aspect of fly control since so many flies need manure for their eggs. A fly repellant can be most helpful on the legs of the alpaca. Disposable fly traps, although quite unsightly, can be hung around the area and can be quite effective trapping adult flies. Thousands of adult flies can be trapped per trap - and that's thousands that do not lay eggs and multiply. Natural predators can also be very beneficial in the reduction of flying critters such as flies and mosquitoes. Barn Swallows and Purple Martins both eat flying insects. It is claimed that Purple Martins eat as many as 2,000 mosquitoes a day. A bat house may also attract bats to your property which are beneficial in reducing flying insects at night. Powdered, granulated garlic can also be added to the alpaca feed to help keep the flies away from teh alpaca.

Mites:

A mite, whose entire life cycle is spent on the animal, burrows into the outer layer of tender skin areas with thin hair coats such as the face, belly, chest, and legs causing Sarcoptic Mange. The area develops hairless spots, dandruff, scabs, and becomes crusty. It may or may not itch. As it develops, the skin becomes thick, crusty, and leather-like. Ivermectin injections are used as treatment as well as an external dousing of the area with a parasite control.

Lice:

Two types of lice may infest alpacas - the biting lice and the sucking lice. The sucking lice feed entirely on blood and can cause anemia and spread disease. They prefer the head, neck and withers area where they actually imbed in the skin. Treatment is Ivomec injected 1cc/110 lbs. Biting lice nibble on hair and debris on the skin surface and can be seen with the naked eye when disrupted. They are found most often by the base of the tail or the side of the neck. Biting lice may be treated with Coral dust (also used to dust rose bushes) by parting the wool down the center of the back and pouring on the dust - about 3 Tbl. per adult alpaca or 1 Tbl./100 lbs. One method of applying the dust is to put the dosage into a mustard bottle and squeeze it out own the spine. Sevin, also a dust, is also used in the treatment of lice. If lice is diagnosed in the herd, it could be treated by putting the Seven in the alpacas dust bowls. The alpacas enjoy rolling in it and dust themselves.

Ticks:

Can also infest alpacas, but the tick type is dependent upon the geographical area. The Rocky Mountain wood tick causing tick paralysis is not found in this Midwest area. Ticks attach to their host and feed on the blood. Remove a tick carefully and perhaps treat the bite with hydrogen peroxide.

Internal Parasites

A useful reference for Diagnosis of Gastrointestinal Parasites in Camelids and Small Ruminants is here. (Dr. Stephen R. Purdy, DVM)

The most common signs of internal parasites are generally diarrhea and weight loss. These are some of the most common internal parasites that we encounter here in the Midwest area.

Common Internal Parasites

The Affects of Internal Parasites

There are many types of internal parasites known that infect alpacas and keeping our alpacas safe from these parasites is a year-round job for the alpaca owner. If parasites are not controlled, the alpaca can become unhealthy and unthrifty. A heavy load of parasites can cause the alpaca to become sickly and lose weight since the worms living in the alpaca steal a lot of the nutrition that is needed by the alpaca. Internal parasites can be a severe problem to alpacas sometimes even causing death.

Drugs and Doses:

Fenbendazole [eg. Panacur, Safeguard]:

Available in paste and liquid formulations generally to serve the equine and food animal markets respectively which is usually reflected in the price. Generally safe, can be used in pregnant dams and crias from a young age if required. Routine dosage: 15 to 20 mg/kg. To figure out how much to give using the paste formulation, the weight scale on the plunger is usually based on a 5 mg/kg dosage. Therefore, multiply the animal's weight by 2 to 4 and use the dosing scale based on this. E.g. a 150 lb alpaca would receive the dose marked for a 300 (at 10 mg/kg) to 600 lb (at 20 mg/kg) horse. For the liquid formulations, this normally comes in a 10% suspension which contains 100mg/ml. Thus for a 20 mg/kg dose, you will need to give 2 ml per 10 kg (or 22 lb) or 10 ml per 50 kg (or 110 lb). In summary the range is 1 cc per 11 to 22 pounds. ( We dose 1 cc per 15 pounds ) You can use an oral dosing syringe for this or a dosing gun which normally comes with the larger packs. Fenbendazole is available in a medicated feed formulation. This approach should only be used if you can ensure that all animals receive their prescribed dose: feeding in separate bowls may work but ensure that the animals low in the pecking order also receive theirs. Because of the higher dose recommended in camelids, animals may be required to eat more than they should and there can be the risk of grain overload.

Avermectins [eg. Ivomec, Dectomax]

Widely used for meningeal worm control. Meningeal worm prevention programs usually require ivermectin or doramectin to be given by injection every 30 to 45 days, respectively. Certain types of gastrointestinal parasites, such as nematodirus/whipworms/tapeworms, are highly resistant to avermectins. There not to be relied upon for control of gastrointestinal parasites. Avaiable in injectable (1% solution = 10 mg/ml), oral paste, and feed additive Dose: 300 ug/kg (1 cc of 1% injectable solution per 70 lbs body weight)

Nematodirus or Whipworms (egtrichuris)

These parasites are notoriously variable egg shedders. Even one egg identified on a fecal exam suggests a problem. Aggressive treatment may be required. Dose fenbendazole at 20 mg/kg for five consecutive days.

Moderate strongyle load

A single dose of ivermectin, fenbendazole, or albendazole may be sufficient. If the animal is severely thin, then we recommend using a 3-5 day course as discussed.

Coccidia [eg. Eimeria sp.]

Coccidia are protozoan parasites. Anthelmintic drugs as discussed for intestinal parasite treatment are no effective against protozoa. Coccidia is treated with sulfa drugs (e.g. sulfadimethoxine = albon), but is prevented by using specific drugs such as amprolium (e.g. Corid) or decoquinate (e.g. Decoxx). Label directions should be closely followed because overdosing these drugs can be harmful to the animals.

Albendazole [eg. Valbezen]

Similar mode of action to fenbendazole but not quite as safe. Do not use in pregnant animals and use care when giving to young crias. Much better coverage for tapeworms than fenbendazole. Oral suspension. Dosage: 10 mg/kg

Specific Problems

To repeat, we are increasingly diagnosing resistance among intestinal parasites in llamas and alpacas. Do a follow-up fecal exam 2 weeks after treatment to confirm that the treatment has worked. A fecal egg count reduction test (checking the parasite egg count before and 14 to 21 days after deworming medication is given) allows evaluation of deworming efficacy. We expect to see >90 % egg reduction if successful. These tests can be done using the Modified Stoll's Fecal Test - this is the only tests available sensitive enough to detect the low egg counts expected after deworming.

Significant strongyle load

Typically, a single dose of any of the various dewormers discussed is adequate for most strongyles. Occasionally heavy burdens are seen. Treat animals for 3-5 days at 20 mg/kg dose of fenbendazole when burdens are severe or damage from larval migrations is suspected.

Tapeworm [eg. moniezia]

Albendazole has better efficacy for tapeworm than fenbendazole. Use a 5 day course of fenbendazole at 50 mg/kg given once daily.

* Intestinal Parasite Control Program, Camelid Health Program, Veterinary Teaching Hospital, The Ohio State University, Produced by Claire Whitehead BVM&S MRCVS and David E Anderson DVM MS DACVS

Fecal Exams:

These, ideally, should be taken from individual animals and not from a communal pooping area. This is important because it allows you to identify particular animals with problems and may show up patterns if you have a herd parasite problem. Take a latex examination glove with a little lubrication and take the feces directly from the rectum. Try to collect a good size sample - about 6-10 beans should be enough, though labs can work with less. Put it in a clean ziplock bag and clearly label with the animal's identification and the date. Take samples fresh and send away or give to your veterinarian the same day as soon as possible to prevent deterioration of the sample.

How many samples should I collect?

We recommend collecting from 10% or 10 animals in your herd, whichever is the greater number. If you have fewer than 10 animals, then test them all.

Which animals?

If you need to choose between animals, select those that may be a little on the skinny side and from a variety of ages. [While we're on the subject, routine body condition scoring in these heavily-fleeced animals will help you keep track of how good your feeding strategy is and also if there may be a parasite problem lurking in your herd.]

It is important that the correct procedure is performed for identifying parasites in camelid feces. Generally, camelids are a lot more susceptible to parasite problems than other species. Therefore, make sure that whoever is going to be doing your faecals knows the correct method to use. At OSU, we recommend doing a Stoll's test which involves a 1:5 dilution with a sugar solution. This is a lot more sensitive than a McMaster's which uses a 1:100 dilution and is therefore only able to pick up faecal egg counts down to 100 epg (eggs per gram). You may also conduct your own fecal tests. Please visit this site in the future to learn how.

Controlling the Parasite Problem

As part of preventive health maintenance for alpacas, owners de-worm them with various medications on a proper deworming schedule. Controlling the number of eggs and infective larva that a alpaca consumes is the starting point of any effective de-worming program. The de-worming schedule is important as well as the type and dosage of medication administered.

1. Targeted Deworming & Fecal Testing

Ideally deworming is administered to those alpaca that have the need for it. Knowing this would be the result of ongoing fecal sampling/testing. We are increasingly diagnosing resistance among intestinal parasites in llamas and alpacas. We recommend doing a follow-up fecal exam 2 weeks after treatment to confirm that the treatment has worked. A fecal egg count reduction test (checking the parasite egg count before and 14 to 21 days after de-worming medication is given) allows evaluation of de-worming efficacy. We expect to see >90 % egg reduction if successful. These tests can be done using the Modified Stoll's Fecal Test. This is the only test available sensitive enough to detect the low egg counts expected after de-worming.

3. Environmental Management

De-worming is not the only effective way to help control parasites. Managing your alpaca's environment is one of the best strategies for parasite control. Since the major objective is preventing pastures from being contaminated with worm eggs, manure removal from their barn areas and pastures will greatly help in breaking up the parasite life cycles. When cleaning pastures, although not all the manure may be able to be removed, the manure is getting raked and broken up, so on hot, dry days, the sun dries out the eggs and larvae and they die. Parasitic larva in manure in the sunlight dries out whereas larva in manure in moist, damp, dark areas survive for months. Cool, wet weather and lush, moist pastures are ideal conditions for eggs to live.

5. Seasonal & Climate Considerations

Some infective larva, such as Nematodirus and Trichurs, can even become dormant over the winter and survive temperatures to 20 below zero. Then they can become infective again about one month after pastures begin new growth in April and May. For this reason, only third generation wormers that are larvacidal are recommended for treatment. Examples are Ivermectin, Oxbendazole (Synanthic), and Albendazole (Valbazen). A third generation wormer attacks the eggs, the larva, and the adults. Panacur or Safeguard is only effective for adult worms and does not affect the larva. Ivermectin or Dectomax is mainly effective on Brown Stomach Worms and Meningeal Worm. Both Valbazen and Synanthic address Nematodirus and Trichurs. Strongyles normally will respond to Fenbendalzole (Panacue or Safeguard) or Ivermectin.

2. Precautions & Post-Treatment Pasture Management

When de-worming, the entire herd could receive the medication - except for those females that are within 30 days of birthing or within 30 days of breeding. (Females in this stage should not receive any medications.) Then after approximately three days the pastures should be cleaned of the manure on the ground to prevent the alpacas from re-infecting themselves with parasite eggs in the pasture. The eggs take 3-4 days to mature so you have that length of time to remove manure from the contaminated pastures. This will greatly decrease the chances of new infections. Or, another good method is pasture rotation: put the animals into a new, clean pasture until the first pasture is cleaned and sun dried.

4. Hygiene & Feeding Practices

Hay racks, feed dishes, water buckets, and automatic waterers should be regularly cleaned to prevent any possibility of parasites living there. alpacas should not be fed on the ground, as this would increase the likelihood of alpacas infecting themselves with parasites that may be living on ground vegetation. To check how effective your parasite management program is you can have your veterinarian check your alpaca’s feces for parasite eggs.

6. Medication Types & Effectiveness

Examples are Ivermectin, Oxbendazole (Synanthic), and Albendazole (Valbazen). A third generation wormer attacks the eggs, the larva, and the adults. Panacur or Safeguard is only effective for adult worms and does not affect the larva. Ivermectin or Dectomax is mainly effective on Brown Stomach Worms and Meningeal Worm. Both Valbazen and Synanthic address Nematodirus and Trichurs. Strongyles normally will respond to Fenbendalzole (Panacue or Safeguard) or Ivermectin.

General Recommendations:

Every worming program should be tailored specifically to the individual farm: no one policy is going to be appropriate for every situation. These are best worked out in conjunction with your local veterinarian and we would be happy to consult with them should further advice be required. In general though, we need to be concerned about the potential for parasite drug resistance in our animals since indiscriminate use of anthelmintics (these are drugs to treat internal parasites, e.g. Panacur, Safeguard, Ivermectin, etc) can lead to "problem parasites" and we only have a limited number of drugs at our disposal. For this reason, periodic fecal exams and judicious use of anthelmintic drugs is the responsible way to ensure that your farm remains disease-free.

Some farms may only require dosing for gastrointestinal parasites twice a year and others may need to worm every 2 months. The frequency of worming depends a lot on your stocking density and management practices. Also, always dose animals individually based on weights: I strongly encourage you to purchase a set of scales for your farm. Under-dosing is another easy way to induce drug resistant parasites. In 2003, we have seen the emergence of "dual-resistance" herds. These herds have intestinal parasites resistant to BOTH ivermectin AND fenbendazole. This is a very grave concern and we have seen many llama and alpaca deaths from this problem. You need to keep vigilant with herd monitoring.

Article: Gastrointestinal Parasites in Camelids
Pamela G. Walker, DVM, MS, DipACVIM-LA
Farm Veterinarian, Alpaca Jack's Suri Farm
Assistant Professor, The Ohio State University

Alpaca Disease - M. Haemolamae

One of the known alpaca diseases that you may not have heard of, but should be aware of, is Mycomplasma Haemolamae. It has been detected since the 1990's and was called Eperythrozoonosis or EPE. Recently the name has changed, but it's still the same disease. Alpaca health is very important to an alpaca business. Educating yourself about this disease will help protect your investment. If you have an animal that is lethargic with chronic weight loss, you should consider M. Haemolamae as a possible cause. M. Haemolamae is a bacteria that attaches itself to the red blood cells of an alpaca. The immune system recognizes this as a problem and destroys the red blood cells. Your alpaca then becomes anemic. In the majority of alpacas infected with this bacteria, there are no signs of the disease. If your animal becomes immunocompromised through another one of the alpaca diseases or is stressed from a move or through other environmental changes, M. Haemolamae can rear its ugly head. The disease can manifest as an acute problem. Your alpaca may suddenly be unable to stand and be extremely weak. Or it may be a chronic problem. As mentioned before, your alpaca may have chronic weight loss and lethargy. If you suspect infection with M. haemolamae, have your vet do a PCR (polymer chain reaction) test. This test amplifies the DNA so low levels of the bacteria can be detected on the red blood cells. This is one of the alpaca diseases thought to be spread by blood. Blood sucking insects such as lice, fleas, and ticks should be kept to a minimum on your farm. Only use a clean unused needle on each individual alpaca when giving injections. Needles are cheap. There is no reason to reuse a needle on another alpaca and risk the chance of transmitting a disease (besides, you dull the needle after the first use and it hurts more). M. Haemolamae is treated with tetracyline. Check with a vet for doses. Unfortunately, it appears that tetracycline does not completely rid the infected animal of this bacteria, but only lowers it to undetectable levels. Once infected, an alpaca becomes a carrier. They will not have problems with the disease unless they become immunocompromised. This is an opportunistic bacteria. The problem with having a carrier in your herd is that a flea could bite the carrier and then bite another animal passing on the bacterium. If you suspect M Haemolamae in an alpaca, you should probably test your whole herd and treat any animal with positive PCR results. Otherwise, you could have a reinfection of the disease. Treated animals usually go on to live a long healthy life. Even though they have not gotten rid of the disease, they can live with it. It's important to evaluate alpacas when sheared or learn body-scoring so you can spot a thin alpaca before purchasing. You should, also, require a PCR test before purchasing. The M Haemolamae carrier may look fine, but you bring them home and they infect your herd causing problems. Here's a couple of interesting facts about camelid red blood cells: They have a lifespan of 235 days vs 100 days for human red blood cells. Camelids have oval red blood cells instead of round like other mammals. This gives them a large surface area so there is better oxygen exchange which helps them survive at higher, thinner air altitudes in their native South America. The unusual shape of an alpacas red blood cell makes understanding alpaca diseases a challenge to veterinarians. M. Haemolamae is thought to be in 25% of camelids (alpacas and llamas) in the United States. More studies are being done to try and eliminate alpaca diseases. Until something better is found for Mycoplasma Haemolamae, keep the insect population down on your farm and test and treat to keep it in check if present.

Breeding

Terminology:

Hand Breeding: One male, one female, breeding takes place, and the male is then separated this is the most common method at most farms.

Pen breeding: One male, one female, leaving them together for a defined period of amount of time.

Pasture breeding: One male, multiple females.

The simple act of breeding can have a major impact to an alpaca female uterus. Generally, it repairs itself after a period of time, 7-20 days. The uterus requires a certain amount of time to heal itself after a birth and regain a normal non-pregnant shape. This is the reason why many breeders choose to wait nearly three weeks before rebreeding. Studies have shown that this is common in open alpaca ranges of Peru. Repeatable breedings at short intervals or unnecessary breedings can do irreparable damage to a female. This action has the effect of shortening the breeding life of a female. The goal is to breed females, keeping the damage to her uterus minimal. To do this requires a good understanding of a female's cycle and her receptiveness to a male.

The Cycle:

Each of the two ovaries of an alpaca produce follicles on a regular cycle that equals 11-1/2 days from beginning of growth to its demise. Each ovary cycle is complementary of the other. This cycle for each ovary is depicted on the accompanying chart using the sine waves as a method of showing the growth and disintegration of each follicle of each ovary. Since we have a 11-1/2 day cycle for each ovary, the combined breeding cycle of both horns is 5.75 days. So each 5.75 days the female will become produce a follicle. The prime breeding time is approximately 3 days on the approach to the top or at the top of each cycle for each ovary as indicated in red and blue. (see PDF of chart here).

This information is made available from Dr. Walter Bravo, DVM. (Reference: The Reproductive Process of South American Camelids' by P. Walter Bravo (ISBN 0-9719073-0-7). The book is out of print, but copies may be found out there!)

Alpaca female receptiveness to a male will vary depending upon where she is in her specific cycle. She may run around a pen and spit but eventually sit down and be bred by the male regardless where she in her cycle, but unless she is bred in the period near the top of an ovary cycle, she will not get pregnant.

In a perfect world a female at the prime breeding time in her cycle will sit down immediately for a male, but the world is not perfect and most female alpacas can't read the manuals. Some females are not very receptive to a male's approach even when she is at her peak breeding time. These females are difficult to determine their cycle and may cause multiple breedings to get them pregnant. Using the following methods you can determine when your experienced female is receptive or going to be receptive without breeding. It can also be used in a limited manner on maidens as well, I will explain later.

Of course, there are other factors, that cause a female to be infertile. However, even in those medically challenged females this method will tell you sooner, with less damage to her uterus, if you have a problem.

Once the female has been bred the first time (as either a maiden or the first time after giving birth) her natural cycle is interrupted and the chart can no longer be used to accurately predict her ovulation cycle.

Breeding Schedules-Experienced Females

01
If you can get a female to sit and be bred routinely every 5-6 days, you may never get her pregnant, regardless if she's a maiden or not.

If you are unsure when your female will be receptive your first job is to determine where she is in her cycle. If she recently gave birth and you know the birth date grab a calendar and do a little calculation. Determine the number of days that have passed since her recent cria was born. Divide that number by 11.5.

Example: Cria was born April 4 and it's now June 4.

Where is she in her cycle? Let's see where she will be at the top of her closest cycle.

April 5 to April 30 = 26 days;
Note: Days start on the day after birth.

Days are inclusive (of days between April 5 and 30th) so it's not 30-5, instead it's 30-5 +1. May = 31 + 4 in June = 61 days. 61 days =10.61 cycles of 5.75 days each. 11 full cycles would be 11 x 5.75 = 63.25 So on 61.00-63.25 = 2.25 days or June 6.25 so on June 7 she will be at her cycle peak.

If your calculations are accurate she should sit down for the male immediately the afternoon of June 6, all day on June 7 and the morning on the June 8. This is a conservative estimate, your female may vary. We have determined this cycle has a time limit on it's accuracy. It appears each female's cycle vary's a little bit from on female to another. The chart works well for about 3 sometimes 4 months but beyond that you will be able to use it to get close.
02
Not all maidens will behave the same when a male is present regardless where she is at the peak in her cycle or not. In most females you can determine when she is receptive without breeding her. By putting her in with a male she may display many types of behavior. The behavior you're looking for is for her to immediately sit down for a male. This will tell you she is receptive and near or at the top of her cycle. Of course, everybody has a female that does not behave quite like you would hope. She runs and spits every time she's in with a male. This type of female, unfortunately, you may have to breed a couple or three times before you find out exactly where she is in her cycle and get pregnant. And of course, even if you do have a female that sits down immediately you may have to rebreed anyway.
03
Assuming you didn't get her pregnant on the first try, you're going to have to rebreed her. what is the best interval to use? The best way to determine this is to find out all days that she will not be receptive and determine how many days, or part of a day, do you have to wait until she becomes receptive to male. To reduce damage to the uterus you shouldn't breed every 2-3 days. Many folks will breed females twice or three times then wait a period of 4 to 7 days to allow uterus to heal, then repeat the cycle. I think everybody has their own way of breeding females. Keep in mind if you wait 5.5 days between breedings, you may never get her pregnant.
04
Should you not know where she is in her ovulating cycle, worst case scenario would be you expose this female to a male at the last hour after the current follicle has disintegrated. How long do you have to wait until she is receptive again? From the chart let's select day 24 as an example. Early in day 24 she may no longer be receptive and the current follicle is in the process of disintegrating. The next time she will ovulate is day 27 so you have to wait about three days. So to hit it in the middle use four days. From any point on the chart where the female will not be receptive, 4 days later she will be receptive. As said above: Once the female has been bred the first time (as either a maiden or the first time after giving birth) her natural cycle is interrupted and the chart can no longer be used to accurately predict her ovulation cycle. This is a work-in-progress. A lot of which (beyond the work by Dr. P. Walter Bravo, DVM) is experimental. There has not been any scientific studies (other than those done by Dr. Bravo) to set it in stone. The best way to determine how the chart works for you is when you have open females stand them next to a (sturdy) fence with breeding male(s) on the other side. Normally, open females will sit down next to the fence when they are ready to breed (ovulating). Not all females (or males) will act this way but those that do you can make note of the day and hour and compare it to the chart. If your female does not sit down, try to notice a difference in the way the female reacts to the male. Some even though they are not pregnant they may spit at the male (or you!). Regardless of the reaction, track how the female reacts. This is a good way of verifying the receptiveness of the female without breeding them and you will determine when you should breed her.

Disease Resistance

Although disease resistance is not an adaptive characteristic to high and semi-desert environments, we will discuss this advantage.

Foot and Mouth Disease: Few clinically important viral disease have been reported. Researchers over the world have reported a few positive serologic test results, indicating exposure to viruses, but no evidence of clinical disease has been presented. Foot and Mouth Disease has been reported as an experimentally induced disease in South American Camelids with very slight symptoms.

The species are relatively resistant to infection by the virus. They could be involved in transmission of the virus (for a very short period, after being artificially infected), rather than a clinical disease presentation.

Sheep Pulmonary Adenomatosis: One of the major economic problems in the Peruvian sheep industry is the so called "Sheep Pulmonary Adenomatosis" (or ovine pulmonary carcinoma). Alpacas or llamas are immune to this disease. This disease is caused by a virus that produces an ultimately fatal lung tumor, which was been experimentally transmitted to lambs. This chronic, progressive and ultimately fatal disease is untreatable.

Pulmonary adenomatosis in sheep frequently co-exist with ovine progressive pneumonia. Culling effected animals is, as yet, the only way to flight both diseases.

Foot-rot: South American Camelids are resistant to foot-rot, by far the most common disease in sheep. It is highly contagious, particularly during the rainy season, Alpacas are animals that like to graze in the "bofedales" (Bofedales are areas with constant moisture underground, retaining a fresh green color during the dry season). Footrot has never been reported in the alpaca and it is very rare in llamas that like to graze in drier areas.

Copper Deficiency: They are resistant to copper deficiency: no case of "swayback" has been observed in camelids.

Epididymitis: This is a testicular inflammation found in a variety of domestic male animals, especially in sheep, and causing ram infertility and abortion in pregnant ewes. This disease is mainly caused by Brucella ovis. Not a singly case of epididymitis has been reported in alpacas, except in cases of traumatic injury to the scrotal content.

As a corollary, it should be mentioned that in the late 1970s, the United Nations Food and Agricultural Organization defined the ideal animal for the future. The animal should be, said FAO, a ruminant; it should need little water; it should be highly fertile; and it should provide people with protein and other products. The alpaca and llama fit the ideal. To find an animal of the future, people need look no further than the camelids.

*JULIO SUMAR-KALINOWSKY, Retired Principal Professor, Head of the Camelids Section and Laboratories at the High Altitude Research Station "La Raya", IVITA, San Marcos University, Lima, Peru. Leading International Alpaca judge.

Passive Immunity Transfer and Plasma Transfusions for Alpaca Crias

This section was written to help alpaca owners gain a better understanding of the passive immunity transfer process, what can be managed to help insure the transfer is taking place, and what to do if failure of passive immunity transfer is noted. Procedures in this article are written in layman’s terms to help alpaca owners better understand the process. Only qualified veterinarians should conduct activities such as blood draws and plasma transfusions.

Septicemia is a major cause of alpaca cria deaths in the first few months of life. It is defined as the invasion of the blood stream by virulent microorganisms from a local seat of infection.

Passive Immunity in Newborn Alpacas

Alpaca crias do not have antibodies from their mother at birth and do not have the ability to produce adequate amounts of IgG (immunoglobulin or antibodies) for the first six to twelve weeks of life to protect them from diseases. Instead, alpaca crias obtain their immunity to many diseases by drinking colostrum or “first mother’s milk,” which is absorbed in the intestines of the cria.

The thick, rich, yellowish milk that is the first milk produced by an alpaca dam after giving birth is called colostrum. The immunoglobulin (IgG) in the colostrum is absorbed through the cria’s intestinal wall before the protein is digested by the digestive system. The IgG is then circulated in the cria’s blood system. This is nature’s way of giving the cria the protection it needs from many diseases during the first few months of life. This process is called passive immunity transfer.

There are many reasons why the process may fail. Alpaca breeders can help insure that passive immunity transfer takes place by managing for success.

Managing for Successful Passive Immunity Transfer

1. Pre-birthing CD Booster

Most veterinarians recommend giving the dam a pre-birthing booster thirty to sixty days prior to the due date. A clostridium CD&T booster will increase the dam’s immunity level and help insure that the colostrum she does produce will contain higher levels of immunoglobulin antibodies to clostridium.

3. Timing is Everything

The newborn cria should nurse colostrum from the dam within two to six hours and absorb the IgG that is in the colostrum through its intestines. Information compiled by Triple J Farms shows that after twenty-four hours, virtually no IgG can be naturally absorbed through the intestinal wall. (Note: Premature crias do not follow this rule.)

5. Colostrum Replacement

If the dam is not producing colostrum, for what ever reason, or if the cria is not nursing successfully, intervention is necessary. If some alpaca colostrum is available from a previous donor it should be bottle fed to the cria within two hours of birthing and completed by 12 hours after birthing. Cow or goat colostrum is a second option, although it is usually much less effective than alpaca colostrum.

7. Milk

It does a cria good! Monitor the cria’s condition very closely during the first 24 hours to see that it is gaining in strength and alertness, is easily nursing on its own, and that it develops into a somewhat regular nursing pattern. The cria should nurse every few hours for two to four minutes each nursing. If it is nursing much more frequently or does not continuously nurse for over two minutes at a time, the dam may not be producing adequate amounts of milk. If the dam is not producing milk, condensed canned goat’s milk (available in large supermarkets and can be stored at home on the shelf unopened for several months) should be bottle fed to the cria. The condensed goat’s milk will give the cria nourishment, but will not give it any IgG and a plasma transfusion may still be necessary.

9. Lab Time/FAX Time

The lab will fax the results of the blood sample test back to your veterinarian, often on the same day it receives the sample for testing. Your onsite veterinarian may need to consult with the laboratory, an alpaca consulting veterinarian, or the plasma supplier on each case. Discuss the interpreta- tion of the IgG and other blood sample data with your veterinarian.

2. Temperature

Under ideal conditions, the cria will gain body temperature to about 101° Fahrenheit. If the environmental temperature is low or the cria is hypothermic (below normal body temperature), dry it off and warm it up immediately after birthing. If the cria were to remain hypothermic, the absorption of the colostrum is greatly diminished. Warming the cria to a normal body temperature of 101°F is very important for good absorption of IgG.

4. Pull the Plug

Insure the dam’s teats are actual- ly giving colostrum. Check the teats to insure the small, wax-like “plug” in the opening of each teat has come out on its own. If not, you need to remove it yourself. Check to see that each teat is able to produce milk. Do not milk out more than one or two drops from each as this is the colostrum, and you do not want to waste it. Just ensure that it is free flowing upon nursing by the cria. If the dam is not producing colostrum or milk, call your veterinarian. He/ she may decide to administer a milk letdown drug such as oxytocin.

6. Mother May I?

Watch to see that the dam will accept and stand still for the cria to nurse. Also insure that the cria is able to stand, find the udder, and make a connection on the teats. One common sign that the cria is successfully nursing is to watch for the cria’s tail to rise during nursing.

8. Blood Donation

Testing a blood sample for IgG can give you a good idea of the success or failure of the passive immunity transfer process. Your veterinarian should take a blood sample from the cria at eighteen to twenty-four hours after birthing. This sample is typically taken from the jugular vein. The alpaca owner can help the veterinarian take this sample by firmly holding the cria’s head during the procedure. An experienced veterinarian can usually take this sample in just a few minutes. Your veterinarian will place this sample in a red-top test tube that is spun and the serum removed. The sample should be sent to a laboratory that is able to conduct IgG testing. M & M Laboratories and Kent Laboratories both conduct this test. The sample does not have to be shipped overnight service, but it will expedite the testing and facilitate quicker reporting of the results to your veterinarian. (Some veterinarians purchase test plate kits from Triple J Farms and conduct the test themselves. However a lab can provide additional information about the blood sample.)

10. General Guidelines

a. IgG level less than 800 (eight hundred) mg/dl Passive transfer may not have occurred at a sufficient level and a plasma transfusion should be considered. Some insurance companies now require crias younger than ninety days of age to have a minimum IgG test result of 800 (eight hundred) mg/dl. b. IgG level greater than 800 (eight hundred) mg/dl Passive transfer may have occurred at a sufficient level and a transfusion may not be necessary. c. In all cases, other factors should be considered in deciding whether to perform a plasma transfusion. Will the cria remain at the same farm or be transported within the next several months? Will the cria be exposed to outside pathogens? Does the cria appear alert, healthy, and full of energy? Does the cria have any other health issues? If the decision is made that the level of passive transfer is not adequate for the set of circumstances, a plasma transfusion should be considered.

Description of Your Veterinarian Performing Intraperitoneal

1. Determine Need for Plasma Transfusion

If your veterinarian has determined that the cria’s blood sample IgG test level and/or other factors indicate a plasma transfusion is necessary, make the necessary arrangements to transport the cria to the vet clinic. If you are not able to transport the cria, the veterinarian may have to perform the procedure at your ranch.

3. Ensure Equipment Availability

Veterinarian needs to insure all equipment is available for the procedure.

2. Calculate Required Plasma Volume

Your veterinarian will calculate the amount of plasma needed to transfuse into the cria to bring the IgG up to an acceptable level. In general, a 300 ml bag of high-level plasma will raise an alpaca cria’s IgG level about 800 mg/dl. The following information may be used for the calculation Target IgG level: 1,200 milligrams (mg)/deciliter (dl) Actual test result: – 616 mg/dl IgG needed: = 584 mg/dl Weight of cria: 17 pounds (lbs.) Lbs./kilo ÷ 2.2 lbs./kilo Kilos = 7.73 kilos Kilos = 7.73 kilos Cria blood volume × 7% Kilos = 0.541 kilos Deciliters/kilo = 100 dl/kilo Deciliters = 5.4 dl IgG needed × 584 mg/dl (IgG) mg = 3,153 mg Absorption factor × 33% est. (absorption rate: 11–60% nt) Total IgG needed = 9,459 mg of IgG to add to cria Donor plasma mg/dl ÷ 3,400 mg/dl on plasma bag label dl needed from bag = 2.782 dl ml/dl × 100 ml/dl ml of plasma needed = 278 ml of plasma to be transfused into cria Note: In this example case, the IgG test taken 48 hours after the transfusion showed the cria’s IgG level was actually raised to 1,432 mg/dl. Example Serum IgG Calculation: For this example, calculation of the actual IgG test result from the cria’s blood sample was 616 mg/dl. The cria’s weight was 17 pounds and the donor IgG.

4. Warm and Prepare Plasma for Use

The bag(s) of plasma must be carefully warmed to near body temperature before it is introduced into the cria. DO NOT WARM IN MICROWAVE as this will damage the properties of the immunoglobulin. Carefully remove the bags of plasma from the storage containers and use caution to not crack the plastic bag material as it may be brittle. Thaw the frozen plasma by placing the sealed bag in a large pan. Continuously run warm water (no warmer than 101° F) into the pan until the bag is completely thawed. The bag will need to be turned carefully in the water to slowly mix the plasma as it warms up. When the entire bag is warm to the touch of your skin (about 100° F) it is ready to transfuse. Do not try to keep the plasma warm for very long as it may parboil the blood plasma proteins.

5. Veterinarian prepares the cria for the transfusion

a. Some veterinarians administer butorphanol sedation, others administer Banamine. b. Hang the bag of warm plasma on an IV bag stand near the examination table. c. Connect the administration kit infusion lines to the bag of plasma and follow directions on the box to insure all air has been forced out of the lines. Lock the valve. d. Some veterinarians place the cria on table with the right side of the body facing up e. Two assistants should hold the cria firmly on the table. It works best for one assistant to hold one hand on the tail area and their other hand on both back legs near the knee joints. The legs should be toward the veterinarian. The second assistant should hold one hand around the front legs near the knee joints and their other hand holding the head and neck down on the table. Other techniques can also be utilized. f. Veterinarian locates the area between the front of the rear thigh, the last rib and the backbone, clips a two inch area down to the skin and uses tape to hold fleece away from the site. They will also avoid any obvious skin veins when locating the incision target site. g. Scrub the area well. h. Veterinarian injects Lidocaine in the incision site just under the skin. i. Veterinarian cuts a 3 mm incision in the skin. j. Next he pushes a three inch blunt-end, two port infusion tube through the incision and through the peritoneal wall. (Notes: Do not use a sharp tipped needle as it might cut internal organs if the cria should move around. Some veterinarians prefer to use a 16 gauge plastic IV catheter to go through the skin hole and into the abdomen. This may require “tenting up” the skin.) k. Connect the infusion lines from the plasma bag to the blunt-end tube. Dr. Greg Mobley connects an administration kit infusion line to a warm bag of plasma that has been hung from an IV stand near the examination table. l. Run the warm plasma into the body cavity in a total time of only five to ten minutes. m. Shut off the valve on the plasma line as the last amount runs down to it. n. Remove the blunt-end tube. o. Glue the skin hole or suture the incision with one or two sutures. p. Place the cria back in the alpaca pen with the dam and monitor for 30 minutes to insure no signs of shock occur. The cria should move about freely. q. Cria may appear bloated and have some slight weight gain because of the added fluid in the abdomen. r. Take another blood draw from the cria about 48 hours after the transfusion and have the sample analyzed for IgG. s. Discuss the results with your veterinarian and proceed accordingly. t. If the expected results are not achieved, a second transfusion may be necessary. Hopefully this article has helped alpaca owners gain a better understanding of the passive transfer process, what can be done to help insure that it takes place and what to do if failure of passive transfer is noted. We would like to acknowledge the following individuals who have made significant contributions to this article. All have been generous in sharing information as a means to raise the knowledge level of alpaca owners: Bill and Sherri Duey of Southern Iowa Alpacas Ranch C. Norman Evans DVM – Llama Wellness Services, Inc., Madisonville, KY Stephen R. Purdy DVM – Dept. of Veterinary and Animal Science, University of Massachusetts., Amherst, MA Dr. Claire Whitehead – Resident, Camelid Health, Ohio State University Greg Mobley DVM – Albia Animal Clinic, Albia, IA Mel Hoskin – Medical Technologist, M and M Laboratories, Milan, MI Donald Jorgensen – Immunologist, Triple J Farms, Bellingham, WA

Intravenous and Intraperitoneal Plasma Transfusions

There are two types of plasma transfusions: Intravenous and Intraperitoneal
Both should be performed only by your veterinarian.

Intravenous

Intravenous plasma transfusions are administered by your veterinarian by very slowly dripping prewarmed plasma through an IV into the jugular vein. This process takes about one and one-half hours to three hours. Intravenous plasma transfusions should be considered when: a. A cria is in a health situation where an IV is already in use b. The cria is not able to stand on its own. (Some veterinarians have observed that a cria should be able to stand and move around freely following an IP transfusion or the IP plasma may tend to pool in the abdominal cavity and not be affective.) c. The cria has some abdominal health issues such as sour stomach or sore belly IV transfusions may be considered to be more dangerous to the cria at the time of the transfusion than intraperitoneal transfusions because of direct infusion of the plasma into the blood stream. They are more time consuming to administer because your veterinarian must insure the IV plasma bag is elevated and stays properly connected to the cria for the entire procedure. The cria does not have to be immobilized during this time, but personnel must be in the exam room or pen with the cria the entire time. The advantage is that there is no chance for injury of internal organs or peritonitis as can occur if improper techniques are used in administering an IP transfusion.

Intraperitoneal

Intraperitoneal plasma transfusions are administered by your veterinarian by making a small incision in the cria’s skin on the right upper flank and infusing plasma into the peritoneal cavity. The plasma must be carefully pre-warmed to body temperature before it is introduced rapidly into the abdomen of the cria. This IP transfusion takes about ten minutes. Intraperitoneal plasma transfusions are the most common and should be considered when the cria: a. Can stand on its own and will be able to move about freely after the procedure b. Does not have any abdominal health issues such as sour stomach or sore belly c. Does not have an IV in place for other health reasons IP transfusions also require aseptic conditions. Poor sanitation can lead to infection in the abdomen causing peritonitis and result in the death of the cria. NOTE: It is important that a blunt-ended infusion tube or plastic IV catheter be used for insertion in the abdomen. Caution should be taken to avoid lacerations to internal organs. As with any medical procedure, your cria is at some level of risk during a plasma transfusion. But with dangerously low IgG levels, the cria’s chance of dying without the transfusion may be high, especially if the cria will not be staying on the same farm. There is, however, some controversy as to which method of plasma transfusion is best. Some intravenous plasma transfusions have resulted in immediate deaths of crias, which were reported to appear to be the results of shock. Some intraperitoneal plasma transfusions have resulted in cria deaths that appeared to be the result of poor sanitary conditions or nicks in internal organs caused by using sharp needles instead of blunt-end infusion tubes. Field veterinarians tend to prefer intraperitoneal plasma transfusions. Many field veterinarians will not perform intravenous plasma transfusions. However, some veterinarians in clinical hospitals prefer intravenous plasma transfusions. There is a controversy as to which type of plasma transfusion is best. Alpaca owners need to work closely with their veterinarian to evaluate which transfusion method should be used in their particular case.

Materials for Intraperitoneal Plasma Transfusions

1. Camelid Plasma

We recommend keeping two 300 ml bags of 2,500 mg/dl (high concentration) plasma on hand any time a cria is due. The plasma may be from alpacas or llamas and should be prepared by a reputable, professional supplier. The plasma is frozen in sealed bags, packed with dry ice inside a Styrofoam container and then shipped by overnight delivery. You need to make arrangements to accept the shipment and place it in a freezer as soon as it arrives. The plasma bags will have information printed on the label as to the date that it was drawn, the number of ml in the bag and the concentration (ml/dl) of the sample. Plasma will keep for about three years if kept frozen in a chest type freezer that does not have an automatic defroster and the sample is truly frozen the entire time. Plasma sells for about $90 per bag.

3. Administration Kit

This kit has a series of tubes, couplers, and valves and is used by your veterinarian to control the flow of plasma from the plasma bag to the infusion tube. It is a Y-type blood/solution set with a large standard blood filter. It is made by Baxter (product number 2C6714). It comes boxed as a complete set and is used only one time for a transfusion. The kit sells for about $12.

2. Infusion Tube

This is a 12- gauge, blunt-end tube with two side ports and is used for intraperitoneal cavity transfusions. Your veterinarian will need to sterilize the blunt-end tube prior to use. (price: $4). Note: Some veterinarians prefer to use plastic 16-gauge IV catheters for IP transfusions and exercise caution when in use to avoid lacerations to internal organs.

IgG Testing:

Having an IgG reading on a new cria can be a great tool, as it can help plan a course of action should a cria's immune system be compromised. Many alpaca breeders have found it extremely difficult or expensive to have the test performed. Fortunately, it's an inexpensive lab test that anyone can easily do at home.

1. Order Testing Supplies

The first step is to order the Radial Immunodifusion (RID) plate number 628411 and the 080919 Wiretrol pipettes from Triple J Farms. The combined cost will be $88 plus overnight shipping. ($35 to the East Coast ) This will allow you to do about 20 tests. The RID plate is where the serum is deposited in order to get the IgG reading, and the pipettes are like a miniature syringe, allowing you to easily measure the correct amount of serum. When it arrives, note the storage info, the RID plate needs to be stored in the refrigerator, face down. When you have some free time, it's time to get your RID plate set up.

3. Record First Benchmark

Mark the IgG of the lowest tube in the fill record for well A1.

5. Deposit Serum

Next, we'll deposit the serum into the well.

7. Observe Ring Development

Now it's time to get the results. It's readily apparent that the higher IgG will create a larger ring.

2. Prepare Work Area

Put it in a well lit area, and if you have a black book or piece of paper to set it on, it will be much easier to visualize while you work. It will come with 4 tubes of serum, and a fill record to mark each well position. Each serum will be marked with the IgG level, ranging from about 200 to about 2500, with #2 being right about 800. These will serve as your benchmark. Shake the tube before drawing the serum

4. Measure Serum with Pipette

We'll now use the pipette to measure the exact amount of serum to put in the well. Draw the plunger up so that it fills to the black line. The white, thicker mark should be on the handle end. Too much, the reading will be high, to little, it will be low.

6. Repeat for All Benchmarks

We'll repeat the process for the remaining serums, from lowest to highest, put the cover back on the RID plate, and relax for 24 hours. Looking at it from time to time will give you an idea of how it progresses.

8. Gain Reference and Practice

You will now have a reference, and the practice you need when it's time to perform an IgG test on a cria.

When that happy day arrives, and you are ready to test your brand new cria, blood should be collected when she is at least 24 hours old. (Note the optimism, it's a girl) The blood should be collected in a red stopper tube. Store the tube upright for a couple of hours at room temperature. The red stuff will sink to the bottom, the clear stuff (serum) will rise to the top. Alternatively, it can be centrifuged for 5 minutes. You can usually find a used centrifuge on e-bay for about $80-$100. Pull the serum out just as you did for the reference serum, place it in the next well, record the fill time, and go play with your new cria.

Mark the cria (or dam) name on the tube, and when you're finished with it, store it away in case you end up needing it for another DNA sample, or if you make a mistake in filling the well properly.

It will be apparent within a couple of hours if the cria's IgG level is going to be acceptable, however the ring will continue to grow for 24 hours.

According to DR. Evans' Field Manual and the research from Triple J Farms, we'd like to see a minimum IgG of 800. One important note is that this applies only to the measurement method of this plate. There are other methods, and the numbers will be completely different.

A quick comparison of ring sizes can be done. If it's larger than the 800 ring from your reference serum, you're in good shape. If it's smaller, it would be wise to consult your vet. You'll quickly learn to guesstimate the IgG and have a number as a reference. While not precise, it does clue you in to potential problems. For those that want the exact numbers, directions come with the plate to allow you to create a graph and plot the exact IgG reading.

For more info on IgG and it's importance, see http://kentlabs.com/articles_igghealth.html

Blood Collection Tubes

Complete Blood Count (CBC):

EDTA tubes (purple top): - Purple top tubes should be 50-60% full. Do not overfill tubes. - Gently mix specimen by inverting 5-10 times and place it on a rocker for up to 30 minutes, then refrigerate at 2-8°C. When a differential is required as part of a CBC, slides must be prepared within 12 hours of blood collection. - Refrigerated EDTA blood is stable for CBC for up to 24 hours. Clotted or hemolyzed specimens are unacceptable. Check for clots by using a clean wooden applicator stick and gently swirling blood in tube. - EDTA microtainers must be “shaken” 10-15 times to overcome the surface tension within the tube

Coagulation:

Sodium citrate tubes (blue top): - Citrate tubes should be filled to the top. - Gently mix specimen by inverting at least 5-6 times and place immediately at 4°C for up to 30 minutes before spinning in a centrifuge.

Capillary tubes:

- Take capillary tube and place finger on the end of tube that has the blue or red fill line mark on it. - Place other end of the capillary tube into the tip of a blood filled syringe, in a drop of blood on Parafilm, or along the edge of a tube of blood (being careful not to spill it!). - Release finger and allow blood to fill the capillary tube (If possible to the blue or red line) by capillary action. If less blood is available, fill as full as is possible.

Serum Chemistry:

Plain or serum separator tube (red top or SST, red/camouflage top): - SST tubes should be at least 50-80% full and should be mixed. - No mixing is necessary with plain tubes. - Both plain and SST tubes must be allowed to clot at 4°C for 30 minutes - 60 minutes. Then the samples must be centrifuged at 7000rpm for 10 minutes and the serum decanted and frozen at -80°C for clinical chemistry analysis. Heparin tube (green top – chemistry/blood gas): - Tubes should be at least 50% full. - Gently mix specimen by inverting 8-10 times and place immediately on at 4°C for 30 minutes - 60 minutes before spinning in a centrifuge, although the exact time allowable may be protocol specific.

Blood Glucose:

Sodium fluoride tubes (gray top): - Tubes should be at least 65-80% full. - Gently mix specimen by inverting 5-6 times and place immediately at 4°C for up to 30 minutes before spinning in a centrifuge - If blood is placed into tubes after removing the tube tops, care must be taken not to cross contaminate tubes containing anticoagulant. It is best to remove the needle before filling the tubes.

HEALTH CARE

Recommended Practices in Caring for Alpaca

Getting Started Introduction Getting Started

Daily Care & Environment Nutrition Physical Environment Social Environment Husbandry

Health & Wellness Physical Assessment Fiber Management Vaccinations Emergency Care Anesthesia Parasite Management

Reproduction & Development Breeding Disease Resistance Birthing & Newborn Care

Introduction:

Getting Started: The Basics

Your Commitment & Planning

Nutrition:

Questions We Need to Ask Ourselves

What do Alpacas need?

What are they getting from our pastures or hay?

What do we need to provide in a supplement?

Can we check to see if what we are doing is OK?